GAS STRUT - HOOD LIFTERS

[SAM-24A]

Hey VRX_Pete: You say that because of the black plate and both the washers, that only half the thread in the nut is engaged.
If thats the case, then "NOT STRONG ENOUGH". Dont worry though.

Remove the Star Washer only, and Loctite the Hex Head Screw (including the Flat Washer) back into the threaded nut. This should provide sufficent thread engagement and suitable strength.

The other only alternative is to obtain longer Hex Head Screws, but if you just remove the Star Washer, all should be fine.


Cheers: Sam

[tryg]

Man, oh, man... no one has heard of a shop selling fastenings????

The assembly is optimal out of the packet, just get a slightly longer bolt...

Loctite is a good solution, but will be more difficult to release in future.

I would bite the bullet at get yourself $3.50 worth of 5mm longer bolts!

[The X]

Man, oh, man... no one has heard of a shop selling fastenings????
The assembly is optimal out of the packet, just get a slightly longer bolt...
Loctite is a good solution, but will be more difficult to release in future.
I would bite the bullet at get yourself $3.50 worth of 5mm longer bolts!

The bolt is welded into the hood, so that's not a solution - the length is fixed. The nut comes off the thread protruding from the hood.

As for the bolt going into the fender, that's not an issue here, they provide you with two new bolts with a longer thread - that is the photo I provided before.

[The X]

Hey VRX_Pete: You say that because of the black plate and both the washers, that only half the thread in the nut is engaged.
If thats the case, then "NOT STRONG ENOUGH". Dont worry though.

I might remove the star and flat washer from the bracket attaching to the hood. The thread is attached to the hood, so I have to unscrew the nut. I can't change the thread length.

However got myseld from Nut Locker Loctite 243, it's a removeable strength threadlocker, which is resistant to oil, fuels, etc. I considered the Loctite 262, but that was more permenant and reading the MSDS needed heat application to undo. The 243 is strong enough but is undo-able with hand tools.

will re-work my install this arvo.

[SAM-24A]

Hey VRX_Pete, I see where the confusion lays:

You presented a screw mounting problem with your gas struts and supplied a picture of where it mounts on the engine bay.
Further reading of your posts suggests your mounting problem is not on the engine bay end of the strut, but at the Hood Hinge end.
You provided the wrong picture, But nevermind, we all make tiny mistakes when overcome with excitement and then possible confusion.
You'll work it out, I'm sure.

Cheers: Sam
PS: Post a pic of the final fix !

[The X]

But nevermind, we all make tiny mistakes when overcome with excitement and then possible confusion.

Nah, I was lazy. ...and there was two questions, the order of the placement of the lock plus flat washer and the issue with the bracket to hood attachment.
The picture of the bracket to the hood didn't come out too well and my underground garage is dark so used the fender attachment as an illustration.
So here it is. Plan is to remove both the lock and flat on this mount point to allow the but a bit more thread mating. As you can see the nut is only half down the thread due to the extra bits, bracket and two washers.

[SAM-24A]

Just remove the Star Lock Washer Only.
Keep the Flat Washer (it's needed to cover the width size of the elongated hole)
The washer part (alone) attached to the nut is not sufficent to cover the elongated hole.
Removal of the Star washer will provide more thread engagement in the Nut and use the 243 Loctite.

Cheers: Sam

[tryg]

Agreed, this would be the best solution, loctite and/or nyloc nut.

Lose the star washer.

[aspir3]

Agreed, this would be the best solution, loctite and/or nyloc nut.

Lose the star washer.

The thread is to short for Nylon lock nut.

The washer looks thick as well. You want to get full nut on thread if possible.

Maybe a thinner washer and nut with suitable loctite!

[tryg]

Aspir3, you must only shop at Bunnings too... there are shorter nylock nuts!

Everyone should have a good fastenings shop on their speed dial and also a ship chandlery also... these places are a God send!

[aspir3]

Aspir3, you must only shop at Bunnings too... there are shorter nylock nuts!

Everyone should have a good fastenings shop on their speed dial and also a ship chandlery also... these places are a God send!

Are we looking at the same picture?
Never seen a lock nut that short!!

[SAM-24A]

I just dont get you Tryg.
Earlier you Posted:

Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:41 pm
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Man, oh, man... no one has heard of a shop selling fastenings????

Now you tell Aspire:

Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:31 am Post subject:
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Aspir3, you must only shop at Bunnings too... there are shorter nylock nuts!

Everyone should have a good fastenings shop on their speed dial and also a ship chandlery also... these places are a God send!

I give-up. But its good to know you found a shop selling fasteners!!! Man Oh Man Oh Man !!

Cheers: Sam
PS: Troy, Low Profile (short height) Lock-Nuts/Nylok-Nuts are available, but generally from Speciallty Fastener Suppliers such as Mullins - Coventry - Bakers/Blackwoods.

[tryg]

Sam, you don't have to get me... I just do jobs right the first time....

I don't ascribe to the 'it'll be good enough' scenario... never works out for me.

Yes, you can get half-height nuts with nyloc, ain't technology grand....

Bunnings is not a GOOD fastenings supplier, ok if you're in a pinch or you casually buy pick-a-packet el cheapo zinc plated shite...

I find that buying from a reputable nut/bolt shop means you can buy stainless for the price of zinc/steel from places like Bunnings/Mitre 10.

Sorry if I lead you astray with the post.. that pregnant pause meant, you can get half-height nylocs, just NOT at Bunnings...

The only thing bunnings is truly great at is house building supplies...

[tryg]

Yes, sorry if I make mistakes too... I did education and Asian studies with my 7 years in Uni. I may not be an engineer, but my dumb ass can do this in several weeks after work and all at home including; paint, nico shine (zinc chroming) and sand blasting.... Chances are, if there is a tool for it, I'll have it..

I make good money out of these types of machines. $150 to buy, $1150 added (on this one) and sold for $4500.

Every bolt in this is stainless, and each one worked out the same price as a cheapo zinc packet bolt at Bunnings..






I'd like to think I picked up enough skills to offer people advice.

[SAM-24A]

OK all that Tryg,

You say:

Every bolt in this is stainless, and each one worked out the same price as a cheapo zinc packet bolt at Bunnings

I'm very interested in what "Grade" Stainless Steel those bolts are!!!
and Where do you buy them for that cheapo price.

Thanks Tryg: Sam