Ben's ride thread

[benyamin]

That just looks like a lot of hard work

And probably some blood, sweat and tears..!! And swearing - there's bound to be a bit of that too.

Ben you probably don't want to use that trans gasket.....they leak like a sieve. Use a genuine gasket.

Thanks for the heads-up, Darryl.

tbh, I usually get a top shelf cork one from my local auto specialist who is renowned in my area. He's only too happy to take my old fluid too, which is nice and saves me a few bob. I just couldn't walk past the deal that Repco gave me on this one.

Now I do think I read somewhere (and maybe here) that the Repco gasket used to to have a defect in the die punch around one of the corners, but it was my understanding that this has since been rectified. Could you tell me a little more about your experience / knowledge with their propensity to leak? I'll certainly take your advice on board.

From the photo you posted, it looks like the genuine gasket might be a paper / neoprene one rather than cork. This could be a problem for me depending on whether there is any damage to the pan and flange surfaces. I haven't had it off yet, so I'll be sure to check when I do. I'll also check the fitment of the cork one and make sure it' doesn't have that defect. I guess I should also make sure I've got some RTV (to get me by for a couple of days if need be) and / or some wheels to get me to my auto guy or the dealership...

I'm not sure what it's going to be like inside yet. I'm guessing not good. Hoping I don't have to rebuild it, but I'm setup for it if I need to. I'll probably start from the top and work my way down, so I might need to drop the pan a couple of times. I'm thinking that cork would be best for that...

[benyamin]

Looks like I'm missing the O-Ring for the CVT heat exchanger housing anyway (2920A096)... They're probably about $5-ish, so might pick up a pan gasket anyway (2705A015), which look to be about $20-ish... It definitely looks like it's paper...

[lancerdarryl]

The genuine gasket is a metal/paper gasket. I've found the cork ones are too thick,when you torque up the bolts it distorts the bolt holes in the pan. As for taking the pan on and off a few times you will get away with it OK using the OEM gasket.While you have the pan off let it drain for a good 30 mins...it will keep bleeding for a good while.Also don't panic when you see the amount of metallic sludge on the magnet it's quite normal.We have a few Mitsubishis that we look after that are high mileage [+300k] they are pretty tough transmissions.
PS do the pan gasket first then the heat exchanger filter second that way you won't have oil and coolant dripping on you.

[benyamin]

Thanks for the advice, Darryl. It's greatly appreciated. I've got a couple of extra steps I want to do to include a chemical flush. This will require removal of the paper filter. I'll probably use this process:

1. Drain & drop the pan
2. Clean out screen filter and re-install (or replace if it's too far gone)
3. Remove paper filter from heat exchanger (replace O-Ring if necessary)
4. Clean out pan
5. Clean and inspect gasket mating faces
6. Attach pan and fill
7. Bring to operating temp and go for a slow drive
8. Add flush and follow product procedure
9. Drain and drop the pan
10. Replace screen filter (or clean if already replaced)
11. Install new paper filter and new O-Ring
12. Clean up pan and reattach
13. Fill and check for fouling
14. Replace fluid until no fouling observed
15. Reset deterioration level in the CVT-ECU

If it works out well, I'll try and do a post in the CVT How-To.

I think mine also has an oil cooler behind the front LH splash guard, which is odd because I thought they didn't come out until 2011... Although, I think I did read somewhere that some power steering setups have one there too... Guess, I'll soon find out. That and also if I've got enough fluid...!

[Lancer1993]

And I've been putting off changing the leaking washer bottle rubber LOL

[benyamin]

I'm sure yours has been subject to regular servicing though..!
I bet that bottle is full of gremlins as well... Methinks leaking washer bottles are not much fun.

[benyamin]

Thought I'd drop a couple of pics re aspiration...





No interference between headlight support cover and intake duct as they're both for the RA...

For those interested, the cover was AU$38 via Amayama + $13.50 freight (Fastway Couriers). Part number is 6400C085 and I believe it is the same part for the Evo and the RA. The duct (P/N 1505A265) was AU$93...

I still need to drop in a scoop (aka ram air intake) behind the grille...

[ReeceCozaa]

Ahhh looks like it fits well and nicely under the hood! I too want to get a scoop to feed onto the air intake from the grille, never gotten around to doing it yet :X