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Nulon Foaming Air Intake Cleaner
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Nulon Foaming Air Intake Cleaner
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aeroso ... ner/#intro
Has anyone used this product before? You spray it into the throttle body directly when the engine is running, and also into the spark plug tubes (not running of course), but then you crank the engine over to blow the gunk out the spark plug tubes.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aeroso ... ns-for-use
Supercheap's video on the product. It is slightly contradictory to the Nulon instructions, but for the most part it is the same concept.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOGFvju2ZTc
It's suppose to work well, and safe to use on even the latest engines that use Direct Injection etc, but just wondering whether anyone has actually used this on a Lancer yet? I'm thinking it would probably be a good thing to do before the tune.
Has anyone used this product before? You spray it into the throttle body directly when the engine is running, and also into the spark plug tubes (not running of course), but then you crank the engine over to blow the gunk out the spark plug tubes.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aeroso ... ns-for-use
Supercheap's video on the product. It is slightly contradictory to the Nulon instructions, but for the most part it is the same concept.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOGFvju2ZTc
It's suppose to work well, and safe to use on even the latest engines that use Direct Injection etc, but just wondering whether anyone has actually used this on a Lancer yet? I'm thinking it would probably be a good thing to do before the tune.
I might add a pic of my car once I style the exterior a bit .
I do, it is a home-DIY task. The only thing I'm curious about is running the engine without the air intake duct connected, as I can't image the car would run too well doing so, and also cranking the engine over without the spark plugs in there.
The spark plugs are the originals. The recent Lancers apparently use the NGK DIFR6C11 as the OEM spark plug, which are supposedly good for up to 160,000 KM. On the Australian NGK site it says 100,000 KM, and on the US NGK site it says 80,000-100,000 miles. They're much more expensive than the NGK's listed for earlier CJ Lancers.
2011 and earlier CJ's:
http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs-part- ... +113kW4B11
2012 onwards:
http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs-part- ... +113kW4B11
The spark plugs are the originals. The recent Lancers apparently use the NGK DIFR6C11 as the OEM spark plug, which are supposedly good for up to 160,000 KM. On the Australian NGK site it says 100,000 KM, and on the US NGK site it says 80,000-100,000 miles. They're much more expensive than the NGK's listed for earlier CJ Lancers.
2011 and earlier CJ's:
http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs-part- ... +113kW4B11
2012 onwards:
http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs-part- ... +113kW4B11
Last edited by burfadel on Mon Feb 01, 2016 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I might add a pic of my car once I style the exterior a bit .
If you are concerned about performance before the tune then take the spark plugs out and run the cleaner. If you are happy with the spark plugs then pit them back in. Personally i would replace them as the labour to get to them is more then the cost to replace them.
It should idle fine with the hose off, I think. I've never tried it though.
It should idle fine with the hose off, I think. I've never tried it though.
Well, the FR6EI spark plugs are $12.15 at Supercheap Auto. The DIFR6C11 which my car requires isn't available at Supercheap, but looking online it is $29.95 from here:
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/ngk-spark- ... 5-difr6c11
They also have the FR6EI for $10.95, so you would probably expect the DIFR6C11's to be maybe $32 each in store if available. That's almost $130 for four plugs, so you would preferably replace them only when required. As my car is under Warranty for another 2.5-3 years (or 53,000 km), I really would have to stick with the plug stated in the manual.
I'll do the clean though, I'm definitely keen to, I was just curious whether anyone else had done it yet.
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/ngk-spark- ... 5-difr6c11
They also have the FR6EI for $10.95, so you would probably expect the DIFR6C11's to be maybe $32 each in store if available. That's almost $130 for four plugs, so you would preferably replace them only when required. As my car is under Warranty for another 2.5-3 years (or 53,000 km), I really would have to stick with the plug stated in the manual.
I'll do the clean though, I'm definitely keen to, I was just curious whether anyone else had done it yet.
I might add a pic of my car once I style the exterior a bit .
aspir3 wrote:If you are concerned about performance before the tune then take the spark plugs out and run the cleaner. If you are happy with the spark plugs then pit them back in. Personally i would replace them as the labour to get to them is more then the cost to replace them. It should idle fine with the hose off, I think. Ive never tried it though.
It won't be - it'll be fairly odd as the air flow won't be metered.
When you rev it, it'll be running rich too.
However, the correct approach is to take it off as that stuff will contaminate the MAF.
The throttle body is electric - I've not tried actuating my one manually to open it.. I'm not sure it has a clutch to manually operate it.
I have used the intake cleaner before on a previous car, it was either the Pulsar or CH Lancer (can't remember), it gets fairly smokey when doing it.. couldn't confirm or deny any results cause of it, for one, no idea how dirty clean it was in there before, and how clean it was after.
Identify the throttle body idle passage, you don't want it to go down there either (warning on the can from memory).
With the engine running it will be open enough to spray inside. For electronic throttles it says you can have someone inside and lightly tapping the accelerator, but I guess you could do that yourself if you can move quickly between the engine and the cabin.
I might add a pic of my car once I style the exterior a bit .
It wont effect the MAF because it is sprayed into the throttle body which is a after the MAF
I have had my throttle body apart years ago when I machined it out and replaced the butterfly valve with a larger one and from memory they close at idle but remain slightly open when ignition is off.
The vehicle only has to idle for a short time while it is sprayed in and then left for 5 minutes.
I have had my throttle body apart years ago when I machined it out and replaced the butterfly valve with a larger one and from memory they close at idle but remain slightly open when ignition is off.
The vehicle only has to idle for a short time while it is sprayed in and then left for 5 minutes.
burfadel wrote:With the engine running it will be open enough to spray inside. For electronic throttles it says you can have someone inside and lightly tapping the accelerator, but I guess you could do that yourself if you can move quickly between the engine and the cabin.
You will not be that quick, you will definitely need some one to help or use something to hold the throttle pedal down, like a brick.
aspir3 wrote:I have had my throttle body apart years ago when I machined it out and replaced the butterfly valve with a larger one and from memory they close at idle but remain slightly open when ignition is off.
Wouldn't it be the other way around? The engine wouldn't run if it wasn't getting air.
I might add a pic of my car once I style the exterior a bit .
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