Removing Aftermarket Alarm

[Fitter]

what else have they fitted to the car?

[tadz0rz]

My sub and amplifier, that was ages ago aswell. Probably around the time of getting the alarm done.

Sub and amp are still working fine though

[Fitter]

just tell them that there is an issue with the locking from the Python keypad, not all the locks engage, its a sporadic problem.

if they "cant find the source of the problem" then tell them you want it removed as your insurer will not cover insurance if the car is stolen due to JB's faulty installation of the alarm

[tadz0rz]

Thanks for that fitter. I'll look into it

What should I do If this doesn't solve the issue with the factory central locking? Take it to mitsu and hope for the best?

[Fitter]

Jb is responsible for it as they did the work.

If u get the alarm removed and still have issues then mitsi should fix it.

The thing about pro installation, car dealership must still cover warranty as it wasn't a backyard job.

[SAM-24A]

Matt aka Fitter Offered this Advice to TadzOrz

just tell them that there is an issue with the locking from the Python keypad, not all the locks engage, its a sporadic problem. if they cant find the source of the problem then tell them you want it removed as your insurer will not cover insurance if the car is stolen due to JBs faulty installation of the alarm

I 100% Agree with Matt aka Fitter.


The way I see your current situation Michael, is that JB stuffed-up in the first place by Selling a Installing an Incompatible Alarm (non CanBus Compliant).

My aftermarket alarm is playing up on me and I dont think its going to be covered by any warranty from JB (Place where I bought and got it installed).

Theres no point going to JB really, I want the alarm out of the car, it wasnt designed for the car and im probably just better off pwning it off for $100 on ebay or something.

Michael ....
I'm not Electronically Savvy enough as is Matt & others to advise you on a "Fix" or "Removal"
However, what I have read and highlighted cast some level of Responsibility & Warrantable Concern by JB-Hi Fi
Sure, they may Argue the point by Offering a Fix & hence not Refund the Alarm cost .... but it's "Ultimately Clear" that you "No Longer" favor this Alarm.

You have 3 Choices:
1 - Remove it Yourself .... could pose further probs your unable to rectify.
2 - Argue the Point of In-Compatible CanBus Installation .... could drag on for ages without favorable result.
3 - Matt aka Fitter's Advice .... Allow JB-HIFI to Find & Fix the Prob .... or Remove It at No Cost to you....

Read:
JB-HIFI Consumer Guarantees, Warranties & Refunds
JB-HIFI Warranty & Refund Policy Guide
Python Alarms "Directed Electronics"

Michael: You Do Have Legal Legs to Stand On .... Exercising them Politely & Respectfully & You May Achieve the Result your Desire.



Good Luck

Sam ....

[LaNcE]

So let me get this straight man, the central locking works if you use the aftermarket alarm and locks all doors correct? and if you use the the oem pad it locks everything except the driver door?

1. why would you install the alarm and use the oem pad in the first place?
2. Im not a alarm fitter or anything but i did a couple of my cars, because no one will install a remote start system before on a manual car. Im guessing what they did was the disabled/cut the main actuator which will be the driver door from the oem central locking. thats why it wouldnt work using the oem pad.

if all else fails ill be happy to drive your car to jb to help you out.

[Fitter]

Lance. Remote starts can be installed into a manual car provided a neutral safety switch is also installed.

This prevents the car from being remote started if its in gear. It must be in neutral so as the car can't jump/move any direction. Law created when a child was pinned against garage door by manual car that was left in gear and remote started.

[tadz0rz]

I cant remember for sure but I think a while ago the factory central locking did work when the alarm was disarmed. Ie: The factory central locking worked fine even with the aftermarket alarm. Its a possibility that recently it has stopped working.

Although it would explain a lot if the signal cable from the factory unlock on the drivers door was cut to hook into the aftermarket alarm. Hence when using the factory alarm it will open every door bar the drivers since it was cut and sent to the alarm instead.

I suppose this could also explain why the alarm will only go off when the drivers door is opened and not any others.

I think that might be the reason behind the drivers door not locking, its no longer connected directly to the factory central locking, instead it is running to the alarm. Sound plausible?

[Fitter]

the alarm module has 2 wires coming from it, that attach to the lock wire and unlock wire of the factory primary CDL (central door locking) motor in the drivers door - or the same wires inside the drivers kick (should be where they picked them up)

that way when u arm and disarm the car with the python keypad it sends the required trigger down which ever wire it needs to signal the drivers door to lock or unlock. when the drivers door latch throws, it signals the other 3 doors to lock or unlock as required

using the factory keypad will lock or unlock the car, but wont disengage the actual alarm or immobilisor circuits

[LaNcE]

yes fitter they do it now. but 2 1/2 years ago they wont. now back to your toy michael!

that makes sense to me. all we can do now is trace all the wires from the alam to which wires the jb guy connected it with. fitter is im not mistaken its the blue/red, blue/black wires are the arm disarm door locks from the cdl, and its the brown and green for the after market one. if we could trace this tadz i think we'll know whats going on. if it was cut from the CDL or not. If it was it will explain a lot,

but then just realising it now all the wires from the other doors will be connected to the CDL right? so if the driver side door was cut there will be no connection between the driver door and the passenger doors.

Unless the jb guy did what i did when i fried the CDL of the lancer? i hooked up all the arm / disarm wiring straight thru the new alarm module. tadz did you check your fuses?! i remember popping 2 boxes of em while doing my alarm. it could be as small as that?

let us know. if you'll need a hand to remove all the electrical tape (assuming the jb guy wrapped it or heat shrunk the wires), uve got my number just message me.

[Fitter]

2 1/2 years ago they wouldn't?? I have been a fitter much longer then that and been doing manual car remote starts longer then 2.5 years. U got taken for a ride.

[tadz0rz]

So what your saying fitter is basicly this....

[Fitter]

on the 12 pin harness, 2 wires, Purple wire, Green wire.

just get tapped straight on. no cutting, no bypass, just tapped straight on and soldered

PM me your number and i will send u a pic.

[tadz0rz]

PM sent Matt.

With the drawing, thats the only reason I can come up with as to why the factory central locking will only work on the 3 other doors and not the drivers. I understand they should of just tapped it, but maybe they didnt...

Hense whenever the drivers door is unlocked with the alarm key it unlocks all the other doors because the drivers door latch as been triggered...