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seat heater wiring and switch

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aspir3
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Postby aspir3 » Fri May 13, 2011 11:46 am

I have just been told by my dealer that Mitsubishi Australia say I can not fit electric heaters to my seat as the wiring there may not be suitable for the current load that it will require.

They also said the MY12 Aspire's will come out with seat heaters as standard.

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Postby Blakey » Fri May 13, 2011 12:34 pm

i can always put it back ;)

he knows what i would of said anyway
Last edited by Blakey on Fri May 13, 2011 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby The X » Fri May 13, 2011 2:38 pm

aspir3 wrote:I have just been told by my dealer that Mitsubishi Australia say I can not fit electric heaters to my seat as the wiring there may not be suitable for the current load that it will require.

You'd think the wiring harness and wire guage would be the same globally. Perhaps they are spinning you crap because they simply don't know themselves. If people don't know, they tend to take the conservative position of, "don't do it" - because if they say you can do it when they themselves are not sure and it manages to short something, then they are liable. :)
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Postby SAM-24A » Fri May 13, 2011 6:01 pm

Oh Well, wait for the MY12 Aspire release, and then the wiring loom, switches, fuses etc etc will be available in the parts list.

You should be able to order them at that time.
The My12 shouldn't be far off.

I'd be interested in these parts myself for my Aspire... :lol:

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Postby ofey » Fri May 13, 2011 6:07 pm

As far as I can see, we have access to buy the switch. Surely the wiring cannot be that difficult.

We need to know how much the heating pad needs to run, then run a suitably gauged wire to the fuse box. Instead of using a fuse fitment, we can use an inline fuse.

Everything in the car is 12V so tap one of the existing 12V sources from the fuse box that is on only when the car is on, probably ACC.

Why fuss over something so simple?
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Postby aspir3 » Fri May 13, 2011 6:13 pm

It has a 30A fuse.

I am not sure if it is as simple as fitting an inline 30a fuse.

The rear demister have a special holder that holds the fuse that attaches to the main fuse block behind the glove box.

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Postby SAM-24A » Fri May 13, 2011 6:16 pm

Heating Elements generally have "High Current" draws.

So it's more a consideration of "Amperage" rather than "Voltage"

Incorrect 12v Tap-Of may cause an over-load and cook your power source.

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Postby ofey » Fri May 13, 2011 6:47 pm

sigh.

I know it's Amperage but surely there's another 30A fuse item in that fuse box.

I see:
Heater
Windscreen wipers
Electric window control
Rear Window Demister

Alternatively, wait till a MY12 arrives and look for how they've done it.
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Postby LZY_EYE » Fri May 13, 2011 9:52 pm

If you are worried about draw on the electrics run a cable from the battery. Install a relay which triggers off the accessories, and install the switch.

Will not place any load on the internal electrics at all that way :)

Have you tried to run a power source to the heater to see if they actually work?

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Postby aspir3 » Sat May 14, 2011 1:56 am

No. I am sure they will work.

I just need to know what the 3 pins in the plug are for.

I have not tried with the volt meter to work it out.

I am guessing
1. earth
2. low heat
3. high heat

I am not sure whether low just is less currant or only half the elements.

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Postby LZY_EYE » Sat May 14, 2011 7:18 am

Sounds like you will be taking your multimeter to the next meet an evo goes to :P

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Postby chris851 » Tue May 17, 2011 12:51 pm

Hey Tory,

not sure if this can help but has bits on the seats and wiring. really detailed.

http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/420133 ... PB.torrent

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Postby Jonesy » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:01 am

My old lady has a Grandis VRX which i THINK has the same seats as our Aspire's. Only difference is hers are hooked up and working. I'm gonna go over to hers this weekend and take a couple of pics if i can and post em up, dont think she will let me take any part apart tho haha :mrgreen:

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Postby ofey » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:35 pm

Ok had the opportunity to look at PYLee's Evo MR yesterday.
Wiring loom is completely different.
As Tadz wanted to take some pictures of the cars, I didn't want to spend too long tracing wiring. Will do it some other time but as a start:

Here's how the wiring under the cup box is on my NA Lancer
Image

Here's how it looks like under the Evo MR's:
Image

Here's the plug into the switch:
Image
We managed to ascertain that the yellow wire is ACC. So it only shows 12V when the car is on.
This would be a safety check preventing you from leaving the heater on when your car is off *forgetful much?* and eventually setting the seat on fire on a warm summer's day.

We've also ascertained that the smaller gauge wires are tapped straight into the wiring from the 3 plugs on the front panel like AFS Off etc on the Evo and back of the blank coin section on the NA.

This would mean it's just a tap for power to light up the buttons when you switch them on.

So the remaining thicker gauged wires Red White Blue and Green I suspect is go and return for current (since the switch would be inline) when the heater. But yet to figure out what is what here.

Here's the plug out of the switch (so you can see which wire goes to which pin:
Image

Here's where some of the thicker gauge wires go:
Image
Last edited by ofey on Fri Sep 16, 2011 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust

BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars

EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors

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Postby aspir3 » Fri Sep 16, 2011 3:03 pm

Thanks Ofey that is excellent. Did you get a picture of the wiring under the seats?

I am doing mine soon. I just need some time off work.

I am not that big a hurry now as it is getting warmer.


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