Hello guys,
I currently have a 2008 VR lancer (western australia) with light sensitive headlight (auto-on).
I was thinking of getting a HID kit (9006, low beams) for it.
Question is would I need to buy a relay harness for it?
and what does a relay harness is used for actually?
(sorry still kinda new)
Any help is much appreciated!
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HELP regarding HID and Relay harness!
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You will need HB4 (9006) bulbs, as you have stated. Try not to go anymore than 6000k - any more its too blue and bloody annoying. Even the 4300-4500k ones are blinding.
Anyway, the relay harness is needed to step the wattage down from the normal 51w to 35w. I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
This will require you to run a cable from the headlight socket to a box. From the box another wire goes out into the HID bulb. It's quite simple really and quite idoit proof when installing - the plugs more or less only go in one way.
Remember not to hold the bulb with bare hands! (the glass bit)
Anyway, the relay harness is needed to step the wattage down from the normal 51w to 35w. I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.
This will require you to run a cable from the headlight socket to a box. From the box another wire goes out into the HID bulb. It's quite simple really and quite idoit proof when installing - the plugs more or less only go in one way.
Remember not to hold the bulb with bare hands! (the glass bit)
2010 RenaultSport Megane RS250 Cup Trophee (Xenons+Leather+Front Parkers)
I installed these a few weeks ago. No you don't need a relay harness or anything additional to your average kit. It should come with the bulbs, ballasts, and a few wires to connect them up. Original headlight wiring connects to the ballast, wires from the ballast connect to the new bulbs. Job done.
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No you don't need the DRL harness or CAN-bus ballasts for Australian CJs.
The CAN-bus ballasts are mainly for the German cars which like to put a sensor in near everything in the name of better user feedback (ever seen the price of rotors and pads for a new VW Tiguan because they have sensors in them ?? mY mates parents have one and it's only done like 40,000km and new rotorsa and pads cost them around $2k )
The DRL harness kit is for some North-American (and I think European) models which came with DRLs factory fitted. Australian models don't have them, so we just need the normal ballasts.
I personally have slimline ebay ballasts ($70 jobs) which are nice and compact and have thus far been reliable for me (only about 6 months old though..). One thing I would strongly recommend though is not getting any whiter a light than 4300K. This is what colour I have and it's the best one for visibility, any bluer (ie 6 or 8000k) and the lights will be too glarey and straining on your eyes.
The purpose of the ballast has nothing to do with the fact normal lights are 55W vs 35W for HIDs. The ballast's main purpose is actually to go from 12V DC upto a high voltage AC. It has two main stages, the first stage is a very high voltage sudden burst of power to ignite the gas in the bulb and then provide high voltage but only small current to keep the gas ignited.
You get two types of ballasts, old passive components based ones that are large and bulky. The main problem with these ones is they can be a bit harsh on the car's electrical system when they start-up.
The other type are the new slimline electronics based ones and with these you want to look for the micro-controller based ones. These have basically a mini computer chip in them which better controls and limits the current on start up and in my opinion these ones are the better ballasts to get for that reason. The only downside is that being electronic based their longevity isn't the best and it potentially 'dirtys' the car's power a little bit because inside the ballast it'll be switching on/off the DC at a high frequency most likely in order to turn it into AC. The best way to pick these ones, is that they have a long and slender box which your headlight plugs into and then from the other end is a thick cable which goes to a transformer which then connects to the globes leads.
The CAN-bus ballasts are mainly for the German cars which like to put a sensor in near everything in the name of better user feedback (ever seen the price of rotors and pads for a new VW Tiguan because they have sensors in them ?? mY mates parents have one and it's only done like 40,000km and new rotorsa and pads cost them around $2k )
The DRL harness kit is for some North-American (and I think European) models which came with DRLs factory fitted. Australian models don't have them, so we just need the normal ballasts.
I personally have slimline ebay ballasts ($70 jobs) which are nice and compact and have thus far been reliable for me (only about 6 months old though..). One thing I would strongly recommend though is not getting any whiter a light than 4300K. This is what colour I have and it's the best one for visibility, any bluer (ie 6 or 8000k) and the lights will be too glarey and straining on your eyes.
The purpose of the ballast has nothing to do with the fact normal lights are 55W vs 35W for HIDs. The ballast's main purpose is actually to go from 12V DC upto a high voltage AC. It has two main stages, the first stage is a very high voltage sudden burst of power to ignite the gas in the bulb and then provide high voltage but only small current to keep the gas ignited.
You get two types of ballasts, old passive components based ones that are large and bulky. The main problem with these ones is they can be a bit harsh on the car's electrical system when they start-up.
The other type are the new slimline electronics based ones and with these you want to look for the micro-controller based ones. These have basically a mini computer chip in them which better controls and limits the current on start up and in my opinion these ones are the better ballasts to get for that reason. The only downside is that being electronic based their longevity isn't the best and it potentially 'dirtys' the car's power a little bit because inside the ballast it'll be switching on/off the DC at a high frequency most likely in order to turn it into AC. The best way to pick these ones, is that they have a long and slender box which your headlight plugs into and then from the other end is a thick cable which goes to a transformer which then connects to the globes leads.
Shhh Blake ... you've never even tried them 
After installing mine, and adjusting my headlights up correctly, I can imagine ever going back.
After installing mine, and adjusting my headlights up correctly, I can imagine ever going back.
.
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I dont need to try them to know that they are dangerous to every other driver. Not. To mention illegal. It doesn't matter how you havem them set they project a completly. Different beam patten to halogen and are not ment to be put in halogen reflectors. As the huge ammounts of glare that comes from them (no matter how low down you have them set its not the direct light causing the glare)... they are dangerous illegal and should never be used in halogen reflectors.
And only be used in proper projector housings
And only be used in proper projector housings
IF YOUR NOT LIVING ON THE EDGE YOUR TAKING UP TOO MUCH ROOM
Did you get all that off of the internet, or from buying a set and having a look yourself? I read somewhere the people in red cars drive like tools ... doesn't mean it's always the case.
Aaaaaanywas, as usual this guy didn't ask anything about the legalities of installing HIDs, he was looking for specifics of what he needs. If he wants to investigate everyone's opinions on what he should do to his car, there's a million other threads with rants about HIDs.
Aaaaaanywas, as usual this guy didn't ask anything about the legalities of installing HIDs, he was looking for specifics of what he needs. If he wants to investigate everyone's opinions on what he should do to his car, there's a million other threads with rants about HIDs.
.
GReddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust - TEIN S.Tech Springs - Injen CAI- 3D Eyelids - Carbon Fiber Interior - Pivot Shift Light - Smoked LED Taillights - Carbonout & Debadge.
GReddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust - TEIN S.Tech Springs - Injen CAI- 3D Eyelids - Carbon Fiber Interior - Pivot Shift Light - Smoked LED Taillights - Carbonout & Debadge.
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Tarquin
- Lancer Legend
- Posts: 1015
- Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:54 am
- Location: BrisVegas, QLD, Australia
Blakey wrote:I dont need to try them to know that they are dangerous to every other driver. Not. To mention illegal. It doesn't matter how you havem them set they project a completly. Different beam patten to halogen and are not ment to be put in halogen reflectors. As the huge ammounts of glare that comes from them (no matter how low down you have them set its not the direct light causing the glare)... they are dangerous illegal and should never be used in halogen reflectors.
And only be used in proper projector housings
It is not a rant - it's the truth.... And regardless of what he asked about, it is good to let them know that it is illegal in non projector housings. They may not know that this is the case....
Free to do what they want to do to their own car.... But all the legal facts is always a good thing imo....
Blakey wrote:I dont need to try them to know that they are dangerous to every other driver. Not. To mention illegal. It doesn't matter how you havem them set they project a completly. Different beam patten to halogen and are not ment to be put in halogen reflectors. As the huge ammounts of glare that comes from them (no matter how low down you have them set its not the direct light causing the glare)... they are dangerous illegal and should never be used in halogen reflectors.
And only be used in proper projector housings
Well said Blakey. + 1 from me.
Really safety is the issue here. More light will blind other drivers. Really the halogen lights are quite good.
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