ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Had my Evo in for the 30,000km service today at Alto in Pennant Hills and they reckon my front disc is warped and grinding (funny, I don't hear any grinding?) and I need new pads all around. They also reckon my rears need machining. They quoted me $3k for the front and $1k for the rear; and that I needed to do it within the next week.

I thought about it and started researching prices because no way could it be that much. Sean (spareparts) confirmed the price of each rotor is quite high per corner compared to if I were to buy from my usual MAP contact in USA (where a pair are approx $400usd).

So I basically said no thanks.

Will probably get new pads though ASAP since there's a good chance they are worn at 27,000km but oddly enough, I don't hear any screeching or grinding noise. Any thoughts?

Time to find an independent mechanic to give me their views.

Anyone else experienced something like this? I found a lot of similar experiences on EvoOz with the Evo 10's. Bit of a joke if they need new rotors after 30,000km- and the whole thread is basically people calling bluff and having independent mechanics say they're fine > http://www.evolutionoz.net/forums/index ... opic=62641 (note: you need to be registered to read)

That does sound strange and ridiculous that a claimed performance car that im assuming is a daily driver as well would need new rotors and not only that but not under warranty? Are they claiming it's abuse?
Keep us up to date!

I may have mentioned the T word (track). My Dad reckons it's a money grab stunt as well so I'm gonna try to get an independent opinion from someone who isn't trying to sell me something (i.e. my trusted Honda mechanic lol).

Are you feeling any vibration through your brake pedal?

If the rotors are warped, you should feel this.

Did they provide you with a report stating the rotors are warped? If not, they cannot tell by using the human eye. They need to use equipment to prove it.

They just told me it's very warped and grinding...

... but I don't feel any vibration through brake pedal nor do I hear any grinding sound/screeching. I'm about to go out so am planning to visit an underground carpark with windows down.

Mate, for what it's worth, I used to have an S15 200SX and got it regularly serviced at my nearest Nissan shop. After 40k, they told me I needed new brakes, so waited until I reached 50k, and replaced them then. Cost a small fortune! Then at my next 55k service, they told me I needed new brakes! WTF??? I had this argument every service, I never replaced them again and sold it at 105k and they had plenty of meat left. Get a second opinion!

Get a second opinion

The service department get rewards for reaching quota's, and they will try anything on to do it. Which is good if you're working for a Holden/HSV dealer and watching all the slightly camber worn tyres being replaced. I lost a fair few cases of beer to the local Bridgestone dealer "stockpiling" in that job..

Thanks for the tips guys. I wound down my windows and I can hear a very faint squeaking/squealing sound when lightly touching the brake pedal in an underground carpark... but apart from that there's nothing to indicate something bad is happening?

Yea my rotors were only very slightly warped only after 27k and got them machined.

Basically it comes down to hard braking early in the rotor's life I've been told. And it seems to stand true. When the car only had just 2k on the odo, I did my driving courses in it. The instructor did say to expect warped discs in a few thousand k's and it did happen.

I do believe there is something in the warranty saying consumables are covered for a small amount of time... But probably not 30,000km I guess...

I'm inclined to think brake discs are wear & tear items

I had squealing noises from my rotors, might need to replace mine, but my noise is loud

The best way to Warp a Disc Rotor is: Hard Braking from High Speed to Dead Stop.

Example:
Your driving at 110kph on a Freeway and for some reason you need to come to a quick and abrupt stop.
You stand on the Brake Pedal and bring your car to as quick a stop as your brakes will allow.
Once Dead Stop, you sit there with your foot firmly planted on the Brake Pedal for a period of time.

Effect - Result:
The Hard Braking from a Prolonged - High Speed Braking effort, creates a Very High Amount of Temperature to develop in the Dics Rotor.
This Excessive Heat causes the Disc Steel to Soften Slightly and Momentarily.
The Fact that you keep your foot Firmly Applied on the Brake Pedal while the Disc Rotors are still Extremely Hot ,
is actually causing the Brake Pads to Push Hard Against the Side Face's of the Disc Rotor (Hot Spotting) and Distort them slightly out of Dead Flat.

Solution: Change Habit:
Shift your Drive to Neutral Immediately after coming to a Dead Stop and Apply the Hand Brake rather than continue with the Foot Brake.
This will allow the Very Hot Disc Rotors to retain their Natural Shape whilst they Dissipate the Excessive Heat Increase, since there is no Brake Pad forcing against them,
(a matter of seconds is all a Rotor needs to dissipate enough heat temp in order to retain its Accurate Shape)

Up-Grade:
This explains why many After-Market Manufacturers offer Rotors made from Better Grade Steel which have been Heat Treated to withstand Higher Temps.
These Better Rotors often incorporate Cross Drilling or Better Cooling Vanes such as DBA's patented Kangaroo Paw.

Regards: Sam....

You may find that the disc's may just need machining but the dealer will always try to up sell new parts as thats where the money is.

Time to get to a decent independant mechanic and see if they just need machined with new pads.

The key thing will be the disc thickness. There is a mininium and if its undersized then they are throw away. Maybe ask your dealer what the thickness left on them is and can they be machined?

Hope this helps
Cheers
John

P.S. A liitle off topic but my taking from reading Mitsubishi's warrant info is they find out your car has been tracked then your 5/10 year Mitsubishi warranty is null and void...