ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Does anyone have an opinion on whether it's worth putting braided lines on an N A lancer if I'm just upgrading the rotors and pads, not bigger rotors or changing calipers. I'm on limited funds but seems to me the stopping power is something I would like to improve and my brakes tend to fade quick when I push it a bit. I already have new gas shocks, kings 30 mm, and whiteline sway bars to put on, and just picked up a set of 18x7 rims (off a Holden) for 100 bucks. New centre caps and I'm off. I'm thinking DBA 2201s rotors and QFM HPX pads

i would spend the money on a higher performing brake fluid and flushing out the stock dot3. maybe use some penrite super dot 4. has a higher boil point so the fluid will stay consistent for longer.

road/sport pads and a high temp fluid will pull u up nicely
no need for new rotors imo unless your planning on some track work.

Kal777 wrote:i would spend the money on a higher performing brake fluid and flushing out the stock dot3. maybe use some penrite super dot 4. has a higher boil point so the fluid will stay consistent for longer.

I was going to do that already, didn't realise they only put dot3 in standard, but the front rotors have started to warp anyway, so I have to do them

warp?, i doubt it, what are the brakes doing to make u think the rotors are warped?

sleeper wrote:warp?, i doubt it, what are the brakes doing to make u think the rotors are warped?

Heavy vibration at anything more than light pressure. It's worse than a wheel alignment problem, which I suppose is what you're thinking. This car has done 85k, it's not a new car

my brakes had vibration after they were overheated, and as soon as they even got warm again, same thing by using the stock pads, new better pads fixed all that, i`d try new sport pads and high temp fluid before i went to the expense of new rotors, but if theyre worn sure change them

sleeper wrote:my brakes had vibration after they were overheated, and as soon as they even got warm again, same thing by using the stock pads, new better pads fixed all that, i`d try new sport pads and high temp fluid before i went to the expense of new rotors, but if theyre worn sure change them

I fihure wtf, get it all done at once and save on labor, shocks and springs, while the fronts are out, get teh CAI put in, have nothing to worry about for another 85k in terms of stopping, and move on to the exhaust, then maybe a few cosmetics. I have to keep the car 5 years, so might as well go the whole hog

Braided lines do have their advantages - due to the fact that they do not swell under pressure like rubber lines when pushed hard, they keep your pedal pressure positive all the time especially if you track your car
DBA rotors are a cost effective upgrade and a higher temp fluid and some decent pads eg Bendix Ultimates or QFMs is a good idea
Cheers Chris.

Mizta B wrote:Braided lines do have their advantages - due to the fact that they do not swell under pressure like rubber lines when pushed hard, they keep your pedal pressure positive all the time especially if you track your car DBA rotors are a cost effective upgrade and a higher temp fluid and some decent pads eg Bendix Ultimates or QFMs is a good idea Cheers Chris.

Thanks, good info

No worries I have done a full upgrade on my VRX including Ralliart front calipers it stops really well

Mizta B wrote:No worries I have done a full upgrade on my VRX including Ralliart front calipers it stops really well

I'd love to go that way, but the money is an issue and I don't like to do work on the brakes myself, if they fail, I want to have someone to yell at

Just be warned if you have a VRX, some parts listings will say the VRX and RA have the same rotors but this is in fact incorrect for the front at least.

adamvrx08 wrote:Just be careful which braided lines you get, you need to make sure they are ADR approved with a coating over the braid, otherwise it can be a defect.

I am thinking GSL, not the cheapest I've found, but state they ar ADR approved