ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Hi guys.
So I own a MY12 ES and shamefully I must admit I didn't take care of it very well the last couple of years. The last service was done just before 90K. Total car noob, but wanting to learn.

Anyway I've decided to DIY the service to learn and also needed something to occupy time with WFH covid lol

I've being using this forum and youtube and it helped me a lot. So far I've completed below:

1. air filter -> changed to new ryco
2. cabin filter -> changed to new ryco
3. spark plugs -> changed to NGK DIFR6C11 (same one in the owners manual), however I'm wondering if I can switch to FR6EI next time. It's half the price!
4. engine oil -> changed twice cuz I screwed up and put all 5L in. Nulon long life 5w-30
5. oil filter -> ryco z411, same one as last service.
6. cvt oil -> Penrite CVT (the J4 one), i screwd up this as well, overfilled it, the car was jerking a bit, i used a fluid extractor and removed about 1L.
7. cvt filter and gasket -> bought a kit from repco, changed the filter/gasket and torqued every thing according to service manual. The cooler filter was too hard for me, I don't know how/what tool needed to reach the screws from below to remove the battery mount.
My first torque wrench was faulty and broke one of the filter bolts, luckily there was a nut and bolt shop across the road, that was a fun sunday arvo lol.
8. aligned wheel with bob jane. Thinking about replacing the wheel/tyres to 18".

fixed up the damaged front bumper -> bought a part from sterlingparts (was only $113) then got a local body repair to paint it. Turns out well... but the engine under guard or whatever you call it is missing. I suspect the mech forgot to put it back on during my last service.

It's being fun so far. now I'm wondering what to do next, a few questions:

1. Dad helped me about a year ago and filled the coolant with SCA coolant (green), it's a bit low now, I'm wondering if I should flush it completely and replace with OEM? do I even need OEM or can cheaper ones do the job. I want to keep servicing as cheap as possible.

2. There is a slight vibration during car idle but other than that, everything is smooth.

3. Break fluid is a bit low but not at the min mark. Should I top it up or bleed it?

4. Anything else I should do for 120k service? or anything that I should take to the shop instead of DIY

FR6Ei work a treat , from memory they were for the 4B12 however, I have been using those in my 4B11 for past few years.
Radiator coolant should be flushed every 2 years.get the bottles of 5L pre mix coolant from Autobarn etc to save some $ they work.

Break fluid will drop as the pads wear out. Perfectly normal.
When you top the fluid and eventually replace the pads that's when you have issues. When you push the brake piston back inside, the fluid backs up and over flows under the bonnet.break fluid should be replaced every two years.
When was the last time the air conditioning was service? It needs to be serviced every two years. Get it done. If not there will be a thick black sludge build up inside the lines and eventually work its way to the compressor and destroy it.get the receiver/dryer replacement done for the AC as well and your cooking with gas.

Thanks bumblebee. a few more questions tho.

So should I flush the break fluid then change the pad at the same time? I don't think it was ever changed since I bought the car new. Should I change the rotar as well?

Another question. Would 5L suffice for a coolant flush. I recall it says the capacity is 7.2L

I'm not so sure but I don't recall aircon ever being serviced, I checked the service receipts and none are mentioned. So I will have to look at how to DIY it. Thanks for the tip!

Have a look at the amount of material left on the pads.If there is 3mm or less then it it's time to replace them.At the same time measure the rotor thickness if they are within spec you can get them machined or you can replace them if you wish.Change your fluid after you have changed your pads/rotors.If the pads still have plenty of material left on them just change the fluid.
Brake fluid should be changed every two years.

5lt of coolant is plenty, the 7.2lt is for a dry fill of the cooling system.You will never get it completely empty when doing a flush and refill.

Air conditioner-- the only servicing that is DIY is replacing the cabin filter anything must be done by a licenced air conditioning repairer

If you are not sure what you are doing with the brakes take it to a licenced mechanic for repairs.Its better to be safe than sorry.

Rotor for the Lancer now days is reasonable priced
Don't be surprised to get the rotors machine on car is not much different between buying new ones
So if they do need to be machined, it's usually.more cost effective to replace them

Out of interest , when was the radiator hoses last replacement done ?
Have a good look at where the hoses get attached to radiator etc
Make sure that there is sign of leaks

bumblebee wrote:Rotor for the Lancer now days is reasonable priced
Don't be surprised to get the rotors machine on car is not much different between buying new ones
So if they do need to be machined, it's usually.more cost effective to replace them

Out of interest , when was the radiator hoses last replacement done ?
Have a good look at where the hoses get attached to radiator etc
Make sure that there is sign of leaks

Thanks! I can't see it noted on the service receipts that the hose were ever replaced... so most probably they are still what came with the car.
I washed the engine bay today and looked around... I can't see any green around the hose to radiator. Any better ways to check that it's not leaking?

To-do list:

1) coolant flush. does the brand matter? this car was topped up with SCA green last time. me thinking going with some penrite/nulon if they are on sale. Are there any benefits changing to blue (if it's allowed)

2) Need to check the break pads/rotar then flush the fluid, undecided if I want to DIY this. It doesn't look too complicated on youtube but safety safety.

3) Aircon, i'm guessing DIY is not advised? I'm still researching on the hows

lancerdarryl wrote:Have a look at the amount of material left on the pads.If there is 3mm or less then it it's time to replace them.At the same time measure the rotor thickness if they are within spec you can get them machined or you can replace them if you wish.Change your fluid after you have changed your pads/rotors.If the pads still have plenty of material left on them just change the fluid.
Brake fluid should be changed every two years.

5lt of coolant is plenty, the 7.2lt is for a dry fill of the cooling system.You will never get it completely empty when doing a flush and refill.

Air conditioner-- the only servicing that is DIY is replacing the cabin filter anything must be done by a licenced air conditioning repairer

If you are not sure what you are doing with the brakes take it to a licenced mechanic for repairs.Its better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks for the info!

For your brakes , safety should be your number one priority not $ , not only safety for yourself , but the others you share the road with. If you have any doubt in your ability to do it go talk to a decent local mechanic.
If you can't see any leaks around the hoses then that's a good thing. Leave them and keep an eye on it when new coolant is installed, remember the cooling system is under pressure also at normal operation temp.
Air conditioning the only way that will be DIY if your a qualified AC mechanic with all the tools etc and judging by your info , It sounds like your not , so you can only get it done by a qualified and certified AC technician.