Servicing your own car

[XTPN]

Hey everyone, hope all is well.

I just recently bought a 2nd hand Lancer VRX 2009 and will be doing a service real soon. As you know with 2nd hands, the warranty isn't transferred with the car so I thought I'd service it myself. According to the logbook, the last service was done @13,000km in 2010... The car is currently @49,000, so I am assuming it is going to be a major service.

Does anybody here service their own Lancer and have any tips on approaching this? Like what to change? What fluid is required? Etc.

Thanks, any replies will be helpful

[Lancer1993]

Parts of the warranty are transferable but given its an 09 model then its likely any new warranty will be finished anyway. Can we assume you bought it privately?

5 years is a long time since a service, I suspect the log book has not been filled out in a while.

Only 49k for that model is not a lot, mine has about 90k now for the same year.

[himynameisdaniel]

best to read out from your service books for the intervals and also what is required to be inspected\replaced\lubed etc.

if no one has touched it as you say, your in for a lot of fluid changes as that stuff deteriorates\corrodes over time.
i would want to flush engine oil,coolant, and especially brake fluid.

(coolant is corrosive especially the anti freeze bits) whilst brake fluids are hygroscopic so they will absorb water naturally over time (water boils at a much lower temp than brake fluid)

I try to do all of my own maintenance where ever possible.

for the most part its oil + filter change and visually inspect everything.

in the maintenance sub section there is a very comprehensive thread on what fluids and rough costs are for your lancer.

there are also some good posts on specific maintenance with decent pictures.
For example Kal did a great one on CVT fluid change.

[XTPN]

Thank you for the replies.

Parts of the warranty are transferable but given its an 09 model then its likely any new warranty will be finished anyway. Can we assume you bought it privately? 5 years is a long time since a service, I suspect the log book has not been filled out in a while. Only 49k for that model is not a lot, mine has about 90k now for the same year.

Indeed it was purchased privately. Yeah, I'm assuming the previous owner did minor services like top-ups and other general maintenance since the oil level is still good.

best to read out from your service books for the intervals and also what is required to be inspected
eplacedlubed etc. if no one has touched it as you say, your in for a lot of fluid changes as that stuff deterioratescorrodes over time. i would want to flush engine oil,coolant, and especially brake fluid. (coolant is corrosive especially the anti freeze bits) whilst brake fluids are hygroscopic so they will absorb water naturally over time (water boils at a much lower temp than brake fluid) I try to do all of my own maintenance where ever possible. for the most part its oil + filter change and visually inspect everything. in the maintenance sub section there is a very comprehensive thread on what fluids and rough costs are for your lancer. there are also some good posts on specific maintenance with decent pictures. For example Kal did a great one on CVT fluid change.

Thanks! That clears some things up.

Just some more questions to clarify... Does anyone know what type of spark plugs lancers(specifically 2009 VRX 2.4L) are equipped with stock? Conventional or iridium? According to the manual it needs an 'NGK FR6EI' or 'DENSO K20PSR-B8', they're both iridium's. Does that mean they're also equipped with iridium's stock so I only have to change it every 100,000 km?

Also, I know it's a controversial question but what do you guys think of aftermarket oil filters and coolant?

I know Mitsubishi tells you to only use OEM coolant but I've heard people use other kinds of brand, same goes with the oil filter.

Thanks a lot!

[himynameisdaniel]

yes they have good spark plugs from the factory.
I noticed fouling at around 40,000 but i did have a bad batch of E10 fuel which caused a no start condition on multiple occasions. so i would attribute it to that.

spark plugs are cheap and easy to do regardless.

i personally will be going with mitsu coolant only. im still debating about using CVT fluid from penrite.
I use ryco oil filters and change my oil + filter every 7500kms.
remember to replace the crush washer!

air filter i use a K+N pannel filter which i clean and oil once a year in summer

also I only use mitsubishi power steering fluid

brake fluid is any reputable super dot 4

[XTPN]

yes they have good spark plugs from the factory. I noticed fouling at around 40,000 but i did have a bad batch of E10 fuel which caused a no start condition on multiple occasions. so i would attribute it to that. spark plugs are cheap and easy to do regardless. i personally will be going with mitsu coolant only. im still debating about using CVT fluid from penrite. I use ryco oil filters and change my oil + filter every 7500kms. remember to replace the crush washer! air filter i use a K+N pannel filter which i clean and oil once a year in summer also I only use mitsubishi power steering fluid brake fluid is any reputable super dot 4

Thank you for your input. Does anyone else have their thoughts on genuine coolants? I've seen a lot of thread where people use those standard Nulon green coolant from SCA. Are those Ryco oil filters holding up fine? They're the Z411 right? Are crush washers the sump plug ones or is that something else? Sorry for all the questions, I'm still new to all this haha.

Hmmm, I'm also unsure what air filter to go with.. How is the K+N panel filter? Or are there any recommendations?

Lastly, what oil brand/type do you guys use? I'm thinking of going with the Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W-40. Just wondering if it's worth it or should I get a cheaper full synth / semi-synth and it'll be just fine?

Thanks for all the help,
appreciate it!

[Kal777]

given that the log book says it has been almost 30,000k since the last oil change it may (but would really hope not) be 15,000k over due for a service. i would run an engine oil flush through the engine with the old oil, get a reasonable semi synthetic 10w40 and change filter and oil and drive for 3000k then change the engine oil again with another engine flush and new filter but this time use Penrite HPR5 5W40 fully synthetic or equivalent.

coolant can be changed to any anti freeze red in a 50% mix providing the cooling system is fully flushed of all old coolant. brake fluid can be any dot 3, dot 4 or super dot 4. if super dot 4 is used a complete brake flush is required.

power steering use gen mitsubishi, mainly because the steering pumps and racks cost a mint if they break down.

i can confirm that penrite CVT-V is fine to use in the CVT auto, had it in one of mine for 60,000k

[himynameisdaniel]

yes the crush washers are for the sump.
if this is something you will be doing frequently yourself you may be interested in a fumoto oil drain valve. i love mine.

all the filters are ok basically the point is that if you change your oil often enough you wont see any problems people are worried about.

there are some good tutorials on you tube available (not necessarily for the cj lancer but you will find other makes and models and the principals are practically the same on any modern vehicle)

good luck.

[XTPN]

given that the log book says it has been almost 30,000k since the last oil change it may (but would really hope not) be 15,000k over due for a service. i would run an engine oil flush through the engine with the old oil, get a reasonable semi synthetic 10w40 and change filter and oil and drive for 3000k then change the engine oil again with another engine flush and new filter but this time use Penrite HPR5 5W40 fully synthetic or equivalent. coolant can be changed to any anti freeze red in a 50% mix providing the cooling system is fully flushed of all old coolant. brake fluid can be any dot 3, dot 4 or super dot 4. if super dot 4 is used a complete brake flush is required. power steering use gen mitsubishi, mainly because the steering pumps and racks cost a mint if they break down. i can confirm that penrite CVT-V is fine to use in the CVT auto, had it in one of mine for 60,000k

Thank you. Hmmm is that way of flushing the oil necessary? Can I use an oil flushing product and flush it once? Or is that bad?

Correct if I'm wrong but doesn't the older model CJ's(2008-2010ish) use green coolants and the later ones use red coolant?

Everyone seems to be using Mitsubishi Gen power steering fluid, I think I'll go with that. Out of curiosity, has anyone used DEXRON II/III?

yes the crush washers are for the sump. if this is something you will be doing frequently yourself you may be interested in a fumoto oil drain valve. i love mine. all the filters are ok basically the point is that if you change your oil often enough you wont see any problems people are worried about. there are some good tutorials on you tube available (not necessarily for the cj lancer but you will find other makes and models and the principals are practically the same on any modern vehicle) good luck.

Thank you for confirming that. I looked into those drain valve. Seems pretty awesome!

Cheers

[himynameisdaniel]

i have a 2010 activ with green\bluish coolant.

I would follow Kal's advice about performing the flush with two oil changes in a short period of kilometres travelled. the reason being is that the new thinner oil with brand new detergents will collect more gunk and debris from the engine and flow it around and hopefully collect it in the filter.

The filter would most likely get full again during this process and its practically impossible to change the filter without completely draining the oil.


Whilst yours should not be as bad as this guys.
http://jalopnik.com/what-happens-if-you ... 1692660828
it will be good to get it all out.

personally i avoid engine and fuel additives like the plague.

[XTPN]

i have a 2010 activ with greenluish coolant. I would follow Kals advice about performing the flush with two oil changes in a short period of kilometres travelled. the reason being is that the new thinner oil with brand new detergents will collect more gunk and debris from the engine and flow it around and hopefully collect it in the filter. The filter would most likely get full again during this process and its practically impossible to change the filter without completely draining the oil. Whilst yours should not be as bad as this guys. http://jalopnik.com/what-happens-if-you ... 1692660828 it will be good to get it all out. personally i avoid engine and fuel additives like the plague.

Thanks. I think I'll flush it twice then.

Dam, that's nasty. Wouldn't want that in my car.

Again, thanks for all the tips!


Lastly, where does everyone get their OEM parts/fluids? I just emailed a Mitsubishi dealership(McGrath Liverpool) for a quote on their OEM parts for my Lancer VRX, and the prices came back as the following:

- Oil Filter $24.28
- Coolant $64.42
- Powering steering fluid $!5.05
- Air cleaner $65.90

Seems hella expensive.. I heard they go for lower than that or is that normal? Does anyone know where else I could get them for a better price?

I'm probably going to use an aftermarket oil and air filter anyways.. Just wanted to check out the price. Sticking to OEM PSF and coolant tho.

Thanks everyone!

[bunnishiwa]

Ryco filterss from Super Cheap are fine as long as you stick to the service intervals. You can get a decent after market panel filter such as K&N for that money, or again a Ryco one. I would also just go for a reasonable brand coolant and power steering fluid.

[darren1011]

[quote:12cf8fce85=Kal777]given that the log book says it has been almost 30,000k since the last oil change it may (but would really hope not) be 15,000k over due for a service. i would run an engine oil flush through the engine with the old oil, get a reasonable semi synthetic 10w40 and change filter and oil and drive for 3000k then change the engine oil again with another engine flush and new filter but this time use Penrite HPR5 5W40 fully synthetic or equivalent. coolant can be changed to any anti freeze red in a 50% mix providing the cooling system is fully flushed of all old coolant. brake fluid can be any dot 3, dot 4 or super dot 4. if super dot 4 is used a complete brake flush is required. power steering use gen mitsubishi, mainly because the steering pumps and racks cost a mint if they break down. i can confirm that penrite CVT-V is fine to use in the CVT auto, had it in one of mine for 60,000k[/quote:12cf8fce85] Thank you. Hmmm is that way of flushing the oil necessary? Can I use an oil flushing product and flush it once? Or is that bad? Correct if Im wrong but doesnt the older model CJs(2008-2010ish) use green coolants and the later ones use red coolant? Everyone seems to be using Mitsubishi Gen power steering fluid, I think Ill go with that. Out of curiosity, has anyone used DEXRON II/III? [quote:12cf8fce85=himynameisdaniel]yes the crush washers are for the sump. if this is something you will be doing frequently yourself you may be interested in a fumoto oil drain valve. i love mine. all the filters are ok basically the point is that if you change your oil often enough you wont see any problems people are worried about. there are some good tutorials on you tube available (not necessarily for the cj lancer but you will find other makes and models and the principals are practically the same on any modern vehicle) good luck.[/quote:12cf8fce85] Thank you for confirming that. I looked into those drain valve. Seems pretty awesome! Cheers

Which part number did u get, from the guide it looks like an f 106 and I asssume you had no dramas with delivery etc. Loookks like a really good idea, I'd never heard of this before

[himynameisdaniel]

yep.
F 106.
i got the nipple version which is F-106N. it sticks out by 1-2 cm a little but not to bad. great for when i want to flush via a hose.

if your car is really lowered i wouldn't recommend the nippled version.

[darren1011]

yep. F 106. i got the nipple version which is F-106N. it sticks out by 1-2 cm a little but not to bad. great for when i want to flush via a hose. if your car is really lowered i wouldnt recommend the nippled version.

No, I've just got 30mm kings and with hte exel g gas shocks seems to sit pretty high. Thanks