ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Hey guys/girls

wanted to know how to make the car shiny.\

I've used 3M Wax and Shine
Turtle Wax
Armor All


None of them working

I use Autoglym products, I think allot of other members do to. The Ultra Deep Shine does a fab job of masking minor scratches, great if you have a dark coloured car.
I got mine from Repco but I did read somewhere its cheaper to order online. It's not cheap but it last a long time. I brought a big bottle around $45 15 months ago and still have half left.

Autoglym is what I use also Clay bar first then Hi Definition wax a bit expensive but worth it.I do mine every 6 months or so.I do my wife's VRX every 4 months -- it spends alot of time outside during the day.They always come up nice and shiny after every wash.

You need to prep's the paint's surface properly if you want to get the full effect of waxing. Claying+deep cleansing the paintwork before waxing is going to help you achieve a much better effect.

I use all Meguiars products.
I'll let you in on my secret,


Step 1 - Wash & Dry (weekly).
Wash with a warm solution of 'Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash' using a microfiber covered sponge.

Dry car completely with a microfiber towel.


Step 2 - Surface Preparation (When required).

Application: Use an applicator pad for each separate product.
Removal: Use a microfiber towel for each separate product.

If you have what is known as fallout on your paint (run your hand across the washed paint work, if you feel little bumps, you have fallout on your paint) you can take the step of using a clay bar on the effected areas.
Don't make a habit of clay baring or use it of you do not need to as it will ware down your paint.

If you have what is known as spidering (looks like swirls in your paint in the sun) I use 'Meguiars SwirlX' or 'Meguiars Ultimate Compound'. Apply and remove the same as you would when waxing.

If you have any heavy colour fade or oxidation in your paint, you can use 'Meguiars Ultimate Compound' or 'Meguiars ColourX' to prep the paint.
Again, only do this if you paint is bad (don't make a habit of doing it) and apply and remove the same as you would when waxing.

If you have scratches, I use 'Meguiars ScratchX 2.0'.
Apply only to the effected areas. Apply and remove the same as you would when waxing.

If you need to bring a shine back into the paint, use a polish. I use 'Meguiars Ultimate Polish' over the entire paintwork of the car.
NOTE: Apply and remove to small areas at a time. If you allow it to set it is an arsehole to remove!

By this point, you want you paint to feel like glass when you run you hand across it.


Step 3 - Waxing (When required).

Application: Use an applicator pad for each separate product.
Removal: Use a microfiber towel for each separate product.

Waxing.
I use 'Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 Paste' over the entire paintwork of the car.
Apply to the entire paintwork and allow to dry before removal


Then you can get into detailing the trim, wheels, interior, lights & seats etc.


On a weekly basis I do step 1 (takes about 1 hour)
I do step 1 & 3 on a 1-2 month basis (takes about 3 hours)
I only do step 2 when required (not often as steps 1-3 take about 4-5 hours to do).




Here's the results...




I'll just add, I have no connection with Meguiars, I just love my car & even more when it's shiny.

Lol going by the write up big D & i are the same person. Same products, approx same routine, excellent results. If you want to read more check out detailingworld, a uk site for the ocd afflicted

You people won`t have any paint left in a couple of years LOL

big_d wrote:Step 3 - Polish and Wax.

I do step 1 & 3 on a 1-2 month basis (takes about 3 hours

No offence, but polishing every 1-2 months is way overkill. As chris said, you're getting rid of a thin layer of paint everytime you polish.

On top of that, if you're washing your car correctly, there is no need to polish every 1-2 months.

If you want a long lasting product Collinite 845 wax is the way to go, an old timer like me

RyanMK wrote:[quote:53c78cf5fc=big_d]Step 3 - Polish and Wax. I do step 1 & 3 on a 1-2 month basis (takes about 3 hours[/quote:53c78cf5fc] No offence, but polishing every 1-2 months is way overkill. As chris said, youre getting rid of a thin layer of paint everytime you polish. On top of that, if youre washing your car correctly, there is no need to polish every 1-2 months.

Right you are, polishing should be in step 2.

I wash my car weekly & apply a new layer of wax every 1-2 months.

I only do anything involved in step 2 if required (as said earlier, not often). I've never clay bared by paint, as I've never needed to.

In saying that, each product has a separate level of abrasion - look at it like sand paper. Clay bar would be a heavy grit and Polish would be a super fine wet n' dry paper. Each product is designed for a separate need. Of course you wouldn't surface prep paint every time you wax a car.

Waxing is all about building up layers of protection. The more you do it, the less likely it is you need to surface prep.

Black paint shows everything

chris wrote:If you want a long lasting product Collinite 845 wax is the way to go, an old timer like me

Collinite is the way to go! Much better durability than Meguairs/Autoglym, and cheaper on top of that! The shine you get is as good as Autoglym in my opinion as well.

big_d wrote:[quote:a030d61ce9=RyanMK][quote:53c78cf5fc=big_d]Step 3 - Polish and Wax. I do step 1 & 3 on a 1-2 month basis (takes about 3 hours[/quote:53c78cf5fc] No offence, but polishing every 1-2 months is way overkill. As chris said, youre getting rid of a thin layer of paint everytime you polish. On top of that, if youre washing your car correctly, there is no need to polish every 1-2 months.[/quote:a030d61ce9] Right you are, polishing should be in step 2. I wash my car weekly & apply a new layer of wax every 1-2 months. I only do anything involved in step 2 if required (as said earlier, not often). Ive never clay bared by paint, as Ive never needed to. In saying that, each product has a separate level of abrasion - look at it like sand paper. Clay bar would be a heavy grit and Polish would be a super fine wet n dry paper. Each product is designed for a separate need. Of course you wouldnt surface prep paint every time you wax a car. Waxing is all about building up layers of protection. The more you do it, the less likely it is you need to surface prep. Black paint shows everything

Exactly. Sorry if I misunderstood you. Do the entire full procedure once, and just wax/wash in between. In my opinion, polishing/surface prepping once a year is sufficient.

Black paint is one of the most satisfying colour to detail though. It reflects everything!

Yep. Use the list as a tick sheet, Go through the list, select what needs addressing and do it once.

Wash & Wax otherwise

* I updated my list to avoid confusion

Any recommendations with the paint protection?

Great right up!

Mitsi wrote:Any recommendations with the paint protection?

Good question. My car has paint protection and I spoke to the Meguiars rep who came into the store one day and he said all u have to do is wash it! Basically if you get ur car resprayed like I do every year that does the polish and waxing for u. So i just was mine then add detailer at the end to get a showroom finish. Hope that heaps

Want to expand on Dave's comment about excessive clay bar use "will ware down your paint."
Clay bars come in Light, Medium and Heavy. They do not remove any of your paint. They remove all contaminants/over-spray and all wax and synthetic paint sealants by pulling these off your paint. At best with a Heavy bar and incorrect use/not using proper clay lube you might mar a bit of your clear coat.

Its product like the one you mentioned Ultimate compounds and swirlx etc are the product which significantly effect your paint thickness. These products contain cutting elements which remove layers of your car paint(that how they remove the marring and webbing from your paint)

You should be careful what products you use on your lancer, lancers have one of the thinnest paint thickness from factory. Try using a dft gauge and you can see for yourself