Hey guys, I can't find any topics here on how to bleed the lancer's brakes (in regards to the ABS unit).
I've found the bleeding order (for a US evo 10),
1) Drivers Rear
2) Passenger Front
3) Passenger Rear
4) Drivers Front.
Does anyone know if it is different to RHD Lancers? and does anyone have info on bleeding the ABS unit itself?
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DIY: Bleeding brakes on Lancer
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On our RHD lancers, it goes
1) passengers rear
2) drivers rear
3) passengers front
4) drivers front
well thats how we do it at work anyway.
And to bleed it, you crack the nipple and get someone to push down on the pedal inside the car, its important to not release the pedal untill you tighten the nipple back up or itll suck air back through the lines. And also to get them ti pump the pedal before cracking so the fluid has more pressure to come out the nipple and making the pedal hard
Make sure you use a drain tray if you dont want brake fluid all over the floor also :')
Hope this helps.
1) passengers rear
2) drivers rear
3) passengers front
4) drivers front
well thats how we do it at work anyway.
And to bleed it, you crack the nipple and get someone to push down on the pedal inside the car, its important to not release the pedal untill you tighten the nipple back up or itll suck air back through the lines. And also to get them ti pump the pedal before cracking so the fluid has more pressure to come out the nipple and making the pedal hard
Make sure you use a drain tray if you dont want brake fluid all over the floor also :')
Hope this helps.
2010 Lancer VRX 👌
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- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 824
- Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:58 pm
- Location: Adelaide
As long as you do not let the master cylinder run dry you will be fine,
Seriously, bench bleeding a MC sucks.
ALWAYS keep the the master cylinder topped up (or at least to where it was prior to when you started) as your brake pads wear down you will require more fluid to push whats left of the pads to the rotor hence less fluid than what may be the marked fill point.
you can engage ABS by driving the vehicle at speed (60-80kmh) and stopping suddenly. (do it safely and always use caution!!! warm up your tires and rotors\pads to minimize wear)
You will note that the brake pedal will feel instantly firmer after this. You only need to do this once. Then bleed the brakes again as the ABS unit will have cycled fluid around.
Also some weird french\GM cars you need to tell the ABS ECU that your doing a brake flush so that it can cycle itself.
I don't believe Mitsubishi enforces something like this. so luckily we do not need to have expensive scan tools for this procedure.
Seriously, bench bleeding a MC sucks.
ALWAYS keep the the master cylinder topped up (or at least to where it was prior to when you started) as your brake pads wear down you will require more fluid to push whats left of the pads to the rotor hence less fluid than what may be the marked fill point.
you can engage ABS by driving the vehicle at speed (60-80kmh) and stopping suddenly. (do it safely and always use caution!!! warm up your tires and rotors\pads to minimize wear)
You will note that the brake pedal will feel instantly firmer after this. You only need to do this once. Then bleed the brakes again as the ABS unit will have cycled fluid around.
Also some weird french\GM cars you need to tell the ABS ECU that your doing a brake flush so that it can cycle itself.
I don't believe Mitsubishi enforces something like this. so luckily we do not need to have expensive scan tools for this procedure.
OK - Replace Brake Fluid first time.
Some Qs:
- After bleeding each individual one and closing the bleeder, and replacing the cap, I noticed the slightest amount of leakage past the threads of the bleeder, this is with it fully tight too. Applying pressure to the pedal after wards didn't seem to cause any further leakage - is it normal for the fluid to seep a little around the threads, at the same time as putting the cap on?
- After doing all corners with the car off, bleeding ever so slowly by opening bleeder with brake pedal down, closing bleeder, releasing pedal, rinse and repeat as many times for around 250mls to go through - I found that on starting the car, there was near no brake pedal resistance, when applying the brakes it would travel further towards the floor. It did return firmer after a short while, but left me initially thinking "No Brakes"...
I had to add a small amount of fluid as the fluid level dropped after this.
After taking it for a spin (when the pedal felt good and the brakes clearly stopped the car), I engaged the ABS and it all seemed good - car stopped as expected, system integrity seems fine.
As the abs was engaged, I'm not sure - do I now have to bleed them all again, or is that fluid not significant, or did it get bled out when I did all the bleeders already?
Some Qs:
- After bleeding each individual one and closing the bleeder, and replacing the cap, I noticed the slightest amount of leakage past the threads of the bleeder, this is with it fully tight too. Applying pressure to the pedal after wards didn't seem to cause any further leakage - is it normal for the fluid to seep a little around the threads, at the same time as putting the cap on?
- After doing all corners with the car off, bleeding ever so slowly by opening bleeder with brake pedal down, closing bleeder, releasing pedal, rinse and repeat as many times for around 250mls to go through - I found that on starting the car, there was near no brake pedal resistance, when applying the brakes it would travel further towards the floor. It did return firmer after a short while, but left me initially thinking "No Brakes"...
I had to add a small amount of fluid as the fluid level dropped after this.
After taking it for a spin (when the pedal felt good and the brakes clearly stopped the car), I engaged the ABS and it all seemed good - car stopped as expected, system integrity seems fine.
As the abs was engaged, I'm not sure - do I now have to bleed them all again, or is that fluid not significant, or did it get bled out when I did all the bleeders already?
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- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 824
- Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:58 pm
- Location: Adelaide
i have always found a very small amount of fluid after closing the valve.
the key thing to look for is bubbles in the fluid going out. if you see bubble then you still have air in the line. When i close the valve i still have the entire valve "submerged" in fluid in the pipe
The key point to your last question is confidence. if you feel confident in your work. and you have really tested the system multiple times. then your good to go.
if you feel the pedal spongey or find that you have to travel the pedal further to the ground to get a previously similar brake effort. get a pro to bleed it for you.
the key thing to look for is bubbles in the fluid going out. if you see bubble then you still have air in the line. When i close the valve i still have the entire valve "submerged" in fluid in the pipe
The key point to your last question is confidence. if you feel confident in your work. and you have really tested the system multiple times. then your good to go.
if you feel the pedal spongey or find that you have to travel the pedal further to the ground to get a previously similar brake effort. get a pro to bleed it for you.
himynameisdaniel wrote:The key point to your last question is confidence
I was more asking do I need to rebleed after cycling the abs - does cycling the abs take old fluid out of the abs unit and actually send it down the line, or is that of no use?
Does the abs module's fluid matter - or is that fine as it is?
The brake system as it sits works a treat, but, if the ABS system has old fluid in it, does that A) Matter, B) Need to be flushed out, C) would actually get flushed out during ABS execution?
http://www.clubcj.net/workshop/SEARCH/2 ... 400ENG.HTM
Take a look at the picture - you can see the master cylinder feeds fluid to the 'abs' module, where all the brake fluid must travel in order to get to the wheel.
My take from that is that if the fluid must flow through that unit in order to get to the wheel.
By flushing through to the wheels, I suspect it would have flushed that unit of fluid?
Last edited by toc on Sat Oct 10, 2015 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 824
- Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:58 pm
- Location: Adelaide
there should be no further action required for your service for the CJ lancer.
The ABS is connected via the same loop and as such any fluid should be going through the unit as part of your fluid change.
Other vehicles may have different procedures as i wrote in previous posts where you would have to connect a scantool and perform a specific function and then in most cases re-bleed the brakes again.
I have not seen anyone perform anything like this on the CJ lancer.
The ABS is connected via the same loop and as such any fluid should be going through the unit as part of your fluid change.
Other vehicles may have different procedures as i wrote in previous posts where you would have to connect a scantool and perform a specific function and then in most cases re-bleed the brakes again.
I have not seen anyone perform anything like this on the CJ lancer.
Thanks, that sounds great.
But does sound different to what you posted earlier in this thread about rebleeding.
My take is it isn't required, but I could be wrong. The service manual makes no special mention of bleeding again, or even cycling the abs module. That to me suggests a single flush is all that is required.
By all means, tell me I'm wrong.
But does sound different to what you posted earlier in this thread about rebleeding.
My take is it isn't required, but I could be wrong. The service manual makes no special mention of bleeding again, or even cycling the abs module. That to me suggests a single flush is all that is required.
By all means, tell me I'm wrong.
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