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Good products for detailing?

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Evo_Girl
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Good products for detailing?

Postby Evo_Girl » Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:35 pm

Hi Guys, I am planning on spending a good whole day for detail my car. I really can't see why I should pay someone $500-$1000 (Yes that’s what they ask for a good detail) to do it.

But what are the best products to use and what kind of products will I be looking for? Also should I give it a buff :P ?

I usually just wash and dry nothing special. But I want to get rid of every spec of dirt and make my baby shine.

Any help is appreciated :)

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zedd82
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Postby zedd82 » Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:38 pm

Auto Glym is a really good quality product
Club CJ's fastest and most powerful Ralliart 349.8kw/ 469hp atw 12.068s 187km/h

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ninjured
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Postby ninjured » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:00 pm

meguiars meguiars meguiars meguiars they have some great package kits available too. scored some mad discounts at repco the other week.. well thats what i use.

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alterego13
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Postby alterego13 » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:10 pm

Whatever products you use...make sure you have heaps of microfibre towels..

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ofey
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Postby ofey » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:17 pm

There's NO one single brand that dominates.
Some brands have outstanding products. Others are outstanding in other areas. Don't lock yourself into a brand name. Silly thing to do.
Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
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zedd82
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Postby zedd82 » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:21 pm

ofey wrote:Theres NO one single brand that dominates. Some brands have outstanding products. Others are outstanding in other areas. Dont lock yourself into a brand name. Silly thing to do.


Totally agree
Club CJ's fastest and most powerful Ralliart 349.8kw/ 469hp atw 12.068s 187km/h

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ijustatecurry
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Postby ijustatecurry » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:41 pm

^agreed.

Secondly you have to get yourself a clay bar + quick detailer spray. Meguiars make one you can pick up @ sca which worked well for me. Have heard mixed results from a buffer, can come up fantastic but can butcher your paint if you bugger it up. For polish ive had good results with turtle wax ice liquid polish, auto glym and meguiars gold class. Prefer the ice though coz you can do it in direct sunlight and it doesn't mark rubber/vinyl
All bleeding stops eventually!

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Vast
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Postby Vast » Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:38 pm

Im lucky with my paint protective film, no polish needed.
I just use Meguiar's Gold Class wash with a good quality shammy and microfibre towel thing for windows.
Love 'my' car

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dragansj
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Postby dragansj » Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:30 pm

Depends on what you want to do...do you need paint correction or just a wax/shine....I looked into this a few weeks ago and went down the path of getting a DA polisher ( will not damage your paint ). And some probably over the top wax ..... Usual method involves :
1. A good wash
2. Clay bar to remove contaminates.
3. Polish (machine or hand depending on correction needed) also different grades of polish depending on what needs to be done .
4. Wax ( I did 2 coats).
5. Maintenance with a quick wash and some quick detailer...also depending on the wax, you will need to re wax every now and then...

I found the guys at carcareproducts (no affiliation) good to deal with..

Regards
D

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squala
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Postby squala » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:25 pm

Mothers and Meguiars are the reputable ones. What I buy depends on which goes on sale. :lol:
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LZY_EYE
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Postby LZY_EYE » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:38 pm

I have to admit I am a bit of a self confessed Auto Glym fanboi! :P

I ordered a fair bit from the UK via Ebay in 5l tins.

If I am doing a full detail on the paint I usually do the following:

Snow foam using a gerni and snowfoam lance / solution from carcare products.

Machine polish using a Ryobi Random orbital sander / polisher (Random orbital makes it harder to burn your paint over a full rotary polisher. I use an almost zero cut pad. My paint is in good condition so no correction required. I use Auto Glym Super Resin Polish.

Hand polish using SRP again.

Coat of AutoGlym HD wax for protection.

I use the AutoGlym Bumper and plastic gell on grilles etc.

Oh and the best thing you will ever buy yourself!!

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http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/produ ... eel_brush/

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ofey
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Postby ofey » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:42 pm

Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel

Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust

BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars

EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors

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RyanMK
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Postby RyanMK » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:51 pm

Warning, TL;DR :lol:

Here are the general steps.

1. Wash and dry. Optimum No Rinse is a very good shampoo. It has a economical solution to water ratio as well.
2. Clay. Bilt Hamber makes very good claybars. Very easy to use and on top of that, water can be used as a lubricant, no need for quick detailers. So that'll save you some $$ long term.
3. Deep cleanse the paintwork with a paint cleaner.
4. You can choose to polish the car if there is alot of swirl mark/scratches. Do note though, everytime you polish, you are slowly wearing the paint thinner. Hence, it's not something I recommend you do often. If it's just minor imperfections, I would just use a glaze to cover the swirl marks.
5. Wax. Collinite 476 is a very durable wax. And it leaves the car shining too. I've had mine on for 3 months, and the beading is still immaculate. And I've tired both Meguiars and Autoglym. Not to mention it's cheaper too. But each to their own. Since yours is a white car, you might want to consider a sealant instead.

Image
Beading after 2 months.
Image
Beading immediately after application


Wheels-Optimum Power Clean is a very good cleaner for the rims. It can be used on the dash/leather seats at different dilution ratios as well. It is one of my must haves in my detailing arsenal.

Tyres-Tyre Dandy

Interior-Dash Dandy

Windscreen/Glass-I used Gtechniq G1 as a sealant. It's been 8 months and still going strong. You don't even need to turn on your wipers when driving 70-80km/h and above. The water just glides off your windscreen!
VG/Ultra Racing/Whiteline/Work/Ralliart/Supercircuit/Cosworth/Pioneer/BC/Recaro

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lancerdarryl
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Postby lancerdarryl » Tue Jul 31, 2012 3:02 am

Be careful! detailing product are like drugs.You start with a few basics then before you know it you find yourself at Autobarn staring at all the other products wondering "What will I try next?" Best advice try a few things and see what you are happy with.

:)
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"Don't back off until you hit something"

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VeryRX
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Postby VeryRX » Wed Oct 24, 2012 11:51 am

After working for a few years detailing cars, and reviews/advice from others I've worked out a few products that I personally think are the best.

Meguiars soft wash gel (wont break the bank but very good if not the best at keeping what wax you have on the car intact).

Mothers Step 2 sealer and glaze (it's a 3 step system, but don't bother with the others unless your paint really is neglected you'll need step 1) Used to give depth to the paint and fill in/remove small swirls and scratches. Amazing effect on darker colours.

Meguiars Ultimate liquid wax (or next tech 2.0 if you want a longer lasting easier to use) Not cheap but these 2 are well worth the money. A bottle will last approx 10 applications on a CJ.

The 3 above steps is a basic system to keep your paint protected and looking it's best. I also recommend a clay bar system once a year, wax every 3 months (if kept in garage), polish every 6 (if you have kept up the waxing). There is no issue waxing more often, but polishing does take a fine layer of paint off, so don't do it every time you wash your car!! As long as there is a layer of wax, you shouldn't need to re-polish.

Common misconceptions:
Polish is completely different to wax. Put simply polish restores depth, wax protects. Hence why I use 2 separate products above.
More is not better, an even thin coat of wax or polish works much better and makes your life easier, while not wasting product.
Do not leave polish on your car to dry, do you car in small sections, remove the residue then move onto the next small section. (With wax you may do the whole car at once as it doesn't matter if it dries).
NEVER use a chamois, they scratch your paint like no tomorrow (micro fibre cloths are the way forward, careful of the tag... Just cut it off so it doesn't scratch).
Sponges, stay well clear of. Use something like a micro fibre or woollen mitt, takes the dirt away from the surface where as a sponge will drag it along the surface. Use a sponge on your wheels LAST so you don't contaminate the water for the rest of the car (sponge to only be used on wheels as they get very messy).

As people have said, it's personal preference and you don't need to spend the earth to get a good finish. For example the micro fibre mitt I use to wash my car is the cheapest you can get, but it does the best job of keeping the dirt away from the surface. On the inside, it's just whatever suits you, whether it be a matt finish or shiny. eg glass cleaner... You don't need meguiars, (though it does smell good) just use a supermarket product with a paper towel then remove with micro fibre cloth and you're sorted.

I personally stick to Mequiars or Mothers as they are well trusted and I have used nearly all their products, but if you have a product you trust and like, then use that!

Hope at least someone finds this info useful!
James.


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