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GReddy Air Intake Thoughts?
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- chunky9
- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 821
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2012 10:21 pm
- Location: Sydney, New South Wales
It's a loss with pretty much all intakes lol. Best set up is the stock airbox and a high flow drop in filter. Get the cai/sri for the intake noise only lol
My progress thread: http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=13443
chunky9 wrote:Its a loss with pretty much all intakes lol. Best set up is the stock airbox and a high flow drop in filter. Get the cai/sri for the intake noise only lol
What. No gain, sure, but a loss?
The greddy is exactly the same as the takeda 2.0L version, a few people have it including me. Its good. I'd try finding one cheaper than that though.
All CJs have the same intake except the evo.
- chunky9
- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 821
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2012 10:21 pm
- Location: Sydney, New South Wales
Dire wrote:What. No gain, sure, but a loss? The greddy is exactly the same as the takeda 2.0L version, a few people have it including me. Its good. Id try finding one cheaper than that though. All CJs have the same intake except the evo.
Ah yeah my bad should have said no gain instead of loss. Yeah i know ive got the takeda too haha
My progress thread: http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=13443
Some of these intake setups can make a small gain (when the under hood air temp is 25*C or less) but the gain is usually because the MAF reads incorrectly and the Air Fuel Ratio is leaner than stock at WOT.
Hence a small power increase.
When the air temps under the hood warm up (always LOL) you start going backward because:
a. Hot air is less dense (power loss).
b. Hot air causes Spark retard (major power loss).
So, to sum up:
stick with the stock airbox, it works well and can be tweaked further and wont get you a defect.
Fit a good panel filter, like Ralliart, HKS or Cosworth.
Fit a Ralliart snorkle, it has no restrictions.
Open up the grill on the radiator dress plate where the air is drawn from/through.
There are some extra hot=rodding tricks you can as well:
Wrap the suction pipe and airbox with heat reflecting tape.
Check out DEI Reflect-a-Gold, this stuff works!
Hence a small power increase.
When the air temps under the hood warm up (always LOL) you start going backward because:
a. Hot air is less dense (power loss).
b. Hot air causes Spark retard (major power loss).
So, to sum up:
stick with the stock airbox, it works well and can be tweaked further and wont get you a defect.
Fit a good panel filter, like Ralliart, HKS or Cosworth.
Fit a Ralliart snorkle, it has no restrictions.
Open up the grill on the radiator dress plate where the air is drawn from/through.
There are some extra hot=rodding tricks you can as well:
Wrap the suction pipe and airbox with heat reflecting tape.
Check out DEI Reflect-a-Gold, this stuff works!
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