yeah that mark was on daveee's one too..
there where a few scratches but overall i thought it was fair.
great that they got here in one piece considering the size of the thing and that it coming from MAL.
i agree that they should of been finished better..
my bumper centre piece and fender vents are great and have been finished off and painted...
the C & V lips have not been painted?
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- ofey
- Alumni
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- Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
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Just to confirm, that mark is on ALL the V-Lips I have with me. I didn't observe if they were on the one I passed to Leevin but I think they were.
Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
- Scott_VRX_Fan
- Lancer VR/GT
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 5:35 pm
- Location: Cranbourne, VIC, Australia
perhaps its an over sight by some here, but i just assumed that painting would be required with something like this?
im yet to see any body part (unless ordered a specific color) that comes painted and ready to go ...
im yet to see any body part (unless ordered a specific color) that comes painted and ready to go ...
Mods Completed
ANZ Tazer 18" Wheels, Rear LED Tailights, GReddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust, Eibach Pro Kit Suspension 1.2" Front 0.8" Rear
Mods To Be Completed
Front Bumper Upgrade
Mods in Development
Brembo Brakes, Rear Wing, Bonnet, Inbuilt Sat Nav
ANZ Tazer 18" Wheels, Rear LED Tailights, GReddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust, Eibach Pro Kit Suspension 1.2" Front 0.8" Rear
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Front Bumper Upgrade
Mods in Development
Brembo Brakes, Rear Wing, Bonnet, Inbuilt Sat Nav
- leevin
- Lancer VRX/GTS
- Posts: 361
- Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:48 pm
- Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
ofey wrote:Just to confirm, that mark is on ALL the V-Lips I have with me. I didn't observe if they were on the one I passed to Leevin but I think they were.
yeah it is. mine also has scratches etc. bit of paint will fix that problem.. but its not that noticeable once its on. im going to get a quote tomoro to see how much it is to get it painted, if its too pricey ill just DIY it haha.
note* if you leave it in the sun a bit.. or heat it up, the lip is a bit easier to maneuver around !!
07 CJ VRX BLACK LANCER
- ofey
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daveee wrote:Could be worse though, could be snapped clean in half so I guess I will just be thankful its not
Wanted to add, that the dealer did mention that one of the guys in Canada ordered the V-Lip and had him saw the lip into half to save on shipping.
He paid the same price as us for that V-Lip
Scott_VRX_Fan wrote:perhaps its an over sight by some here, but i just assumed that painting would be required with something like this?
im yet to see any body part (unless ordered a specific color) that comes painted and ready to go ...
I'm with you on this... . Not many body kits come pre-painted. The VRX spoiler too, if you order from Mitsubishi comes unpainted.
Here's the Dealer's response:
I assure you that the V-lip is not some old stock or 2nd hand. It has to be conceded that it is not the best quality. The fine scratches were caused by mishandling by the workers. Most of them are not trained in anyway, just your random joes looking for a daily job. They don't even have a contract with us. They just turn up and do what we tell them. However, that being said, most of the significant scratches were underneath the lip & the edges. This was a result of their need to hand cut/trim off the excess material from the mould which exposes the inner rubber material used as a cover for the under parts of the stock bumper. I have already sounded my foreman for better QC and am looking into ways to improve.
As for the V-Lip, the machine line I have explained earlier is NOT a crack line or patch mark, it is in the precise same spot on every piece that is produced using this mould we have. Tell your boys that in any case, should an impacted V-lip crack along the said line, we are willing to replace it one to one (shipping to be paid by yourselves of course). I have attached the product model I use when negotiating locally.
See the line too exists on this one too! Surely you don't think my boys produce each of these without the left lip portion then weld this portion on each time! The costs would be too high for me!!
Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
- Bandit
- Lancer Legend
- Posts: 1170
- Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:56 am
- Location: The People's Republic of Campbelltown
I have had a go at fitting my centre lip. It's quite good - fits and follows the coontours of the existing front bar very well. My reservations in that regard have well and truly been quashed.
The piece has quite significant scratches in the middle part, that are in the material and have been painted over. It's not the end of the world for me as I was always going to paint mine, but I can undestand how guys that weren't expecting to paint them would be a bit frustrated.
I'll stick some pictures up as I prep and paint mine.
The piece has quite significant scratches in the middle part, that are in the material and have been painted over. It's not the end of the world for me as I was always going to paint mine, but I can undestand how guys that weren't expecting to paint them would be a bit frustrated.
I'll stick some pictures up as I prep and paint mine.
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- ofey
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If I had to do it, I'd say 2 screws in the holes below and some industrial 3M tape along the top.
Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
- ofey
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If you have a drill bit, I'd say a pair of countersunk screws. IF not ,you'll need a sharp pointy type screw and then just use pure force and get them in. To be honest, I'd say turn up at Bunnings and ask the guys there.
Beeble tooned MY08 OEd. w/ RA BKit+SWheel
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
Cosworth Panel Filter w/ RA Intake | SuperCircuit 4-2-1 Headers | Creat’d Ti-tipped SS exhaust
BC BR-type Coilovers | UR + Whiteline Bars
EBC GreenStuff Pads | RDA Rotors
- aussie027
- Lancer Ralliart
- Posts: 554
- Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 4:02 am
- Location: Perth, WA, Australia
I asked the screw Q a few pages ago with a couple of answers .
I bought 8G x 25 mm self tappers with a button (wide ,thin,flat) head as I was planning to put a couple in top of lip as well. Asssuming my replacement C lip is same design as everyone elses.
The tape is not a bad idea. Or silicone adhesive.
My biggest concern is the underside screws in the thin plastic resin of the airdam horns. A friend suggested putting some araldite or silicone on the screws before drilling em in but ideally getting some backing material behind where you are drilling which will be difficult even tho the back of the horns are open to at least finger tips.
Let us know what you use guys. Im still waiting for my replacement and hope it is not damaged, a good fit and not too scratched.
I bought 8G x 25 mm self tappers with a button (wide ,thin,flat) head as I was planning to put a couple in top of lip as well. Asssuming my replacement C lip is same design as everyone elses.
The tape is not a bad idea. Or silicone adhesive.
My biggest concern is the underside screws in the thin plastic resin of the airdam horns. A friend suggested putting some araldite or silicone on the screws before drilling em in but ideally getting some backing material behind where you are drilling which will be difficult even tho the back of the horns are open to at least finger tips.
Let us know what you use guys. Im still waiting for my replacement and hope it is not damaged, a good fit and not too scratched.
I FIND YOUR LACK OF FAITH DISTURBING......
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