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Paint Protection and Electroninc Rust Units
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 12:13 pm
by Sgt Kulpepper
Hey guys. You may have read that Im getting an Activ next month. Im looking at paint protection. Tint a Car have a new product called Sirius 8.5. Has anyone had experience with this product?
Im also getting a rust unit put in aswell as the two front windows tinted for $1000. Has anyone had experience with Tint a Car aswell??
Cheers
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 12:51 pm
by aspir3
Waste of money!
They are just putting fear into you to receive your hard earned cash.
Most modern day cars are made from a high tensile steel, that has a special coating to protect against rust. You can buy a can of fish oil and spray it inside your doors and would do the same thing for a small cost. The important thing here is not to park your car under trees, as the leaves and dirt can make it's way to the bottom of the doors and block the drain holes. These can be easily cleaned by removing the door trims and vacuum the rubbish out.
We are lucky in Australia they do not put salt on the roads for snow.
The paint protection is easily applied your self. Takes 2-4 hours and costs less then $100. I use Gelson Star polymer car clearcoat. Any polymer will do the similar thing.
Tint a car are a franchise that is very expensive. All stores have to buy the tint from the organisation at an exuberant price, which makes them not competitive.
You are best to shop around for window tint and apply the paint protection your self.
I hope that helps.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 1:21 pm
by Tin_Pusher
A few cars back I was offered one of those electronic rust units. The paperwork claimed it induced a small voltage onto the chassis which assisted with the prevention of rust.
With a background in electronics I had my doubts, and intending to install radio communications gear in my car I had no intention of installing something that could tamper with the earth/chassis side and potentially zap something ........
Edit: I forgot to say I had the two front windows of the CJ done by Tint-a-car for $130. You could find cheaper places around though.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 1:42 pm
by Blakey
the electronic rust protection works from how i was told it works by putting a negative Charge on the chassis, which apparently stops the rust causing properties in metal to happen, kinda like a negative barrier, on your metal and it pushes away, stuff that makes metal rust,
but i would of thought it would cause electrolysis, which can make rust happen quicker.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 2:57 pm
by Dire
From my experience (mum's experience) they work. Or at least cause no harm. Her falcon has one from factory.
It does make some sense... Idk how to expain it well though.
Like, if there is a small charge (the opposite charge to what induces rust) it'll actually prevent the rust reaction. The reaction is trying to move in the direction towards rust and the current will push it the other way, which causes nothing to happen.
Pretty much what Blakey said.
Oh and its only a TINY current, its not going to zap you unless they screw up the install somehow.
And my car has done 5000kms and has a chip that has rusted already.
I think that... On a car with decent paint theres no point. On our cars theres a little bit more reason to. But its still not worth it unless you live on a beach or a salt plain or something.
And yeah paint protection is bull. I have the dealership one, it does nothing, and the car was covered in swirls and lines after. Just wax and polish it.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:35 pm
by Blakey
found a good reason not to get it, its does not work at all in cars.
Rust Inhibitors for cars, does it work?
Caveat Emptor
Well real corrosion inhibitors do! Although you still have to be choosy when come the offerings, some snake oil merchants prefer the green in your pocket than to sell you a honest service that achieves the intended purpose. No sweat, you can beat good old corrosion with a little magic powder and, of course, the green in your wallet. Here is something we have to say about the uselessness of these devices that go by different names, technical descriptions, glossy brochures, and glitzy Web sites.
The technique they are actually trying to sell you under various names is called good old honest cathodic protection (CP), a technique that has been used with success to protect against corrosion on many structures and systems including sea going ships, buried pipelines, and even reinforced concrete. However, there is an area where the technique has no chance to work ... the protection of cars. Human nature being what it is, many entrepreneurs have tried to use the visible successes of CP to make money by offering car owners devices to achieve such protection. They typically offer these snake oil devices at a price that could be reasonable if it did indeed work. In reality, the gizmos they offer are a lost in the suckers pocket and a gain in the entrepreneur crooks bank account. And watch out, they will disguise the same old gadgets with new patents and glitzy technical names, even throwing in a microprocessor!!
Why these gadgets do not work?
One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.
But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
Modern car manufacturers often do a process called zinc electroplating on the entire chassis of the car. So long as the zinc is complete, the car will not rust. Your best bet is to regularly clean out all the drain holes so that the water can't collect, scrape off any mud that has collected so that metal does not rust away underneath the mud, and remove the leaves and dirt. And of course, once you've washed the car, you should always take it for a drive so that any trapped water can slosh out.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:56 pm
by PYLee
just maintain your car regularly and have a layer of wax/sealant on it at all times , that'll do the trick
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:42 pm
by Dire
I'm not sure I agree with that stuff Blakey... I don't think it needs a complete circuit, as the electrons would go straight to the point where its trying to rust (ie there'd be no 'flow' until something tries to rust). I don't think it'd need a traditional circuit.
But yeah I'm of the opinion that either way, its not going to be worth it.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:54 pm
by aspir3
Think about people.
What was the last modern day car that had a rust problem?
Cars ever since the 90's do not rust away.
Unless you live along the beach and expose it to salt.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:57 pm
by bd-850
most cars now are plastic anyway
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:59 pm
by WTR
G'day Tyson,
I had the 2 front windows done to match the rear privacy tint.
Used this co.
http://www.tintonthemove.com.au/
Don't know if they are up in Qld.
BTW.... $70.00
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:25 pm
by Blakey
Dire wrote:I'm not sure I agree with that stuff Blakey... I don't think it needs a complete circuit, as the electrons would go straight to the point where its trying to rust (ie there'd be no 'flow' until something tries to rust). I don't think it'd need a traditional circuit.
But yeah I'm of the opinion that either way, its not going to be worth it.
it would need to complete a circuit, because no current can flow, no electrons can flow. so the concept, will not work. yes the concept is correct, but it cannot work, unless you stick a bunch of capacitance plates over your car so electrons can flow, or make special paint that has a layer of dielectric between it and a conductive paint. chassis is - paint is +. that will in theory prevent rust, cause the circuit is complete cause there is a capacitive load.
even with rust there will be no flow, and if its rusted then its to late.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:30 pm
by WTR
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:43 pm
by Blakey
cathodic protection wont work with out a circuit.
and cars dont live in salt water so sacrificial wont work either.
both methods do not work in a car.
Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:45 pm
by WTR
Chill, Blake ......... just providing info - not saying either method works !