Page 1 of 2
How to remove rear tail lamps
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:55 am
by bungfritz
Hey guys, just purchased myself a set of led tail lamps from ofey. You can call me a noob, but i'm having a bit of trouble removing the rear headlamps.
On the side rear headlamps, i've removed the two screws that you can see when you open up the boot. After that they still seem fairly attached to the body of the car. I've taken off the trim at the back of the lights, but there seems to be no other screws there.
My question is, do i just give it a hard yank to make it come out, or is there something else i have to do before removing the lights?
I've downloaded the service manual for the lancer, but i couldn't find any information about tail lamp removal.
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:14 am
by exaltd
Mine didn't come out only because it had glue on the padding
but i think that wasn't stock
probably got glued after my accident so it wouldn't shake so much, to keep me happy
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:42 am
by blanka
its just the 2 screw thats holding it in place after u unscrew that u just have to wriggle it out cos theres like another 2 screw looking thing thats like cliped onto the car...... becarfull to wriggle it out as slow and carfull as u can
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:40 am
by Blakey
On the side ones there is 2 screws and 2 kinda like clip things that stay in the body and the metal pin pulls out with the light they just require you to pull out on the ouside of the light. best way to do that is to. put your palm on the out side of the light and your other and near where the 2 screws came out and push with your palm against the light and out fom the body. and pull with your other hand but dont pull on it to much or you will jam the corner of the light in to the body (damage paint/light) so only pull lightly but best you will require a fair bit of force when your pusing with your palm on the out side of the light as there are to clips on top of each other they hold pretty dam well.
to get the center ones out you need to take the boot lid cover on the inside off. to do that you get a small blade screw driver. and gently pop the clips open then pull them out. once the cover is off you un do the 2 nuts. to then get the light out push on the 2 bolts where you took the 2 nuts off. i found that the best way to get the center ones out.
i belive the nuts are i think it was 10mm nuts. a hex nut driver would do it. if you dont have that use a spanner they are only hand tight so they dont require much to get them off.
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:09 pm
by bungfritz
Hey guys, thanks for all your responses. After a bit of trouble, I managed to get the lights installed and working aok. They definitely look a milllion times better than the old lights and I think they match the design of the car more.
Anyway thanks again for the help
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:55 am
by altered_reality
does anyone have instructions on the installation of the resistors, where exactly the wire/silver bits go?
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:59 am
by tadz0rz
ofey wrote:Load ResistorsNow when you put on your LED tail lamps, some of you may encounter a problem that your cruise control will not engage and the warning: asking you to bring your car in for servicing.
This is NOT consistent in all trims. My Olympic Edition requires these load resistors whilst my brother's VRX and cjsig's ES both do not need them.
This is due to the fact that LEDs have very low resistances, your ECU thinks the globes in your car have blown. To fix this problem, I have included a pair of wirewound 180 ohm 5W resistors in your box. This will simulate the globes to the ECU.
Place them in between the red and black wires on the corner tail lamp units as shown:
You could use a pair of pliers to pull out the red and black wires and inserting them back with the resistor across them. This should then allow them to sit tightly within the case.
Take care with this step and place them tightly as you will have to screw the socket back into the housing of the lamp and if unsecure, the resistor may come lose.There should be no problems with the resistor over heating as I've hooked it up directly to a 12V supply for over 1hr and it's merely warm to the touch. Let alone the fact that there will only be a load across it when you depress your brakes.
Let me know if you have further problems.
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:41 pm
by tryg
has everybody used the resistors? Has anyone had any problems by not using them?
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:03 pm
by asHxP
Yep, got warning signals and cruise control didnt work, a lot of us had that experience i think. It was fixed after application of the resistors
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:05 pm
by tryg
ashpx, yours is a VRX correct? Anyone with an ES have the same problem? Just checking...
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:37 pm
by blanka
i have es i had the problem gone as soon as i put in resistors
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:18 pm
by exaltd
This has something probably to do with the load being drawn from VRX compared to ES. ES in stock form doesn't draw as much power imo, and so we don't need it. But once you start modding your car's electrical bits, i.e. stereo etc. - you will, as it is drawing more power
So it's safe to say if you are going to mod your car electrically, just put it in so it will save you the trouble later. I have in my ES, and haven't faced any troubles, even though I haven't modded the electrics yet. It's just a prevention measure for me
-EXALTD-
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:22 am
by Speedie
I didn't try mine without them on I just installed the resistor, no need to put them on then take them off again
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:20 am
by bungfritz
I'm with speedie on this one, just inzstall them in at the start toavoid any problems which may occur later on.
When I first installed my lights, I didn't put in the resistors, and after starting the car, I thought it was ok since no cel's popped up. However I found with my car, the cel would pop up usually half an hour after I first started driving.